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Wednesday, May 1, 2013

The Chase - Columbus, Ohio has its New York Minute


Orchard House Cinnamon Roll Bread Pudding
This is the first installment of ‘The Chase’- First hand accounts of our travel, dining, and really any experience we feel like sharing. 

Our first stop is Columbus, Ohio.

Yes, you read that right, this post is about a trip to the Midwest and how Columbus surprised us with a weekend as exciting as any Manhattan could ever offer.

As it is all too common a habit of east coast city dwellers, I will refrain from any disparaging remarks having to do with preconceived notions about the mid-west. Instead I will fill you in on what we found to be quite the gem of a town, hopefully you find it entertaining and informative....

Ohio Bound

Now you must understand, P's brother is in college in Granville, OH, so we have a reason to go there, we didn't just come up with this on our own (please...). So one free weekend we packed up Harry and his monogrammed tote and headed west. From lift off to touch down was less than an hour, great for us, but rough on Harry as he got off the plane more than a little hungover from his pill, but nonetheless, we were off!

We landed late, hungry, tired from the week, and stressed about how rude it might be to arrive late the tiny B&B we had booked, we started our trip off in a frenzy. From the airport we made our way to Easton. Easton is a mega-mall meets strip-mall meets pedestrian shopping zone, the like of which I imagine can only exist in suburban locales west of the Blue ridges, but either way, it's a major retail and dining destination to which people from all around Ohio flock. Normally this is the kind of place we'd avoid, but as I mentioned, there was an air of desperation around our travels and I really wanted to keep hypoglycemic rage out of the picture.

We pulled into Piada around 9:30pm. I have to admit, we'd been there before on a prior visit, otherwise I wouldn't advise approaching these places blindly. Piada is the brain child of Italian chain maestro Chris Doody (Bravo Brio Restaurant Group), this is his "Italian street food" answer to Chipotle. Without getting into too much detail, I'll just say there was a pressed flat bread, wrapped burrito style around grilled chicken, fresh veggies, creamy parmesean sauce, and pasta (yes pasta) on our plates within 5 mins, who can argue with that?!?

Piada has countless healthier options, with high end ingredients and creative combinations, but we wanted to head right up the caloric ladder, no questions asked. The food was exactly what we needed, but the highlight of the night was the wine. I know wine from "fast food"....scary? swill? delightful? oh so European? who cares! it was $1.50 a glass!!! I couldn't tell you if it was good or not, I don't think it even touched my tongue while I slugged it, but it definitely sealed Piada as the ideal late night, quick bite spot for weary travelers.

We made it to the B&B by 10:30pm. My anxiety about showing up late quickly abated when we were greeted by one of our host/owners, Don, with the biggest smile and warmest welcome anyone can expect at such an hour. The one preconceived notion about the Midwest that is true, is people are nice. Don gave us a brief tour and we quickly took stock of the charming antiques and quaint architecture, then tip-toed into our room. Despite our exhaustion, and our fear of waking our fellow guests, we decided to tempt fate (putting our polite young couple label on the line) and snuck out to meet P’s brother on campus in Granville. Now what happens in Granville, stays in Granville, enough said....

The Orchard House


Orchard House Granville
In the frosty morning light, the Orchard House B&B is really a vision. The sun pours in through the original glass windows, dappling the beautiful floors of the formal parlor and rustic dining room. There is abundant art, that, whether local or not, captures perfectly the bucolic appeal of this rural locale. Harry particularly loved the horse pasture next door, and the abundant farm animals on the property. Llamas, burros, peacocks and of course the resident dogs themselves made for an exciting, if chilly, morning constitutional for all of us.

Don and Andrew, the couple who own the place, run it both as a bed & breakfast and working farm. I have to imagine that in the summer, this place becomes a verdant paradise for anyone enamored with country living. We just happened to come too early in the season (Late March) for any activity in the garden or field.

On a more personal note, not only were we warmly welcomed as a gay couple (one would expect as much from a gay owned establishment, but nice nonetheless) but we also got some of the best sleep of our lives. The cozy room was warm enough to keep out the Ohio chill, all potential ambient light blocked out by heavy curtains, and the mattress was so perfectly firm we almost took the sheets off to check the brand.

Welcoming Committee
If we could have spent the entire weekend at the Orchard House we would have, but we had to get out and explore Columbus eventually.

While our first night was spent at a dorm party, punctuated by shots of 99 black berries and a dance off, our next morning was decidedly more mature. After a hearty farm style breakfast at the Orchard House, we hit up the coffee shop, River Road Coffee. It's a Granville favorite, known for single stream sourcing, indulgent concoctions like the Blueberry Crumble Latte, and LONG LINES. Fortunately, we arrived before the local soft ball team, so we were happy with cups in hand within 5 minutes. My taste in coffee is simple, I like bitter and rich. This hit the spot exactly, and P quite enjoyed his caremelly Americano. We'll leave the dessert like concoctions to those with a strong sweet tooth, and frankly I don't need my coffee reminding me how I can't bake to save my life.

 

 

 

 

Short North


Short North
Having fueled up on caffeine, we headed into Columbus. The Short North District was our first destination. This area, situated north (surprise) of the Convention Center and centered along N. High Street, is a burgeoning cultural zone set amid up-and-coming residential areas. We found parking quite easily, I was surprised as we’d heard this was the first sunny day all year in Columbus so we expected everyone to be out and about.

With no agenda but to enjoy each other's company and get to know the town with P's brother and his girlfriend, we headed off walking. Our first stop was Tiger Tree. This cool store not only welcomed Harry with open arms, but was a treasure trove of Fred Perry, Scotch & Soda, and all varieties of no-name accessories for the style savvy guy (and girl). The taste level extended to the housewares and vintage furniture on the second floor. Suddenly we knew Columbus had a lot more in store for us than we'd originally thought.

Three Dog Bakery
Next was A Gal Named Cinda Lou, with a name like that, it's no shock that this turned out to be the coolest little vintage boutique. No sooner had we walked through the door then I found myself desperately coveting an original steel grey Eames molded shell chair put on rockers. Small, tidy, and tucked neatly into a corner on High Street, this store is not only a great place to pick through nostalgia inducing treasures, but it is also home to Henry, the most adorable Boston Bull we've ever seen, we had to pull Harry away from him when it was time to leave....

Apparently dog stores are on trend everywhere, because we passed at least 3 before stopping into Three Dog Bakery. Here we found an astonishing array of home baked dog treats, in every shape and size. They are known for their all natural ingredients, gluten free options, and decadent doggie pastry selection that looks like something right out of the finest Parisian patisserie, carob fondant and all. Harry chose to get an assortment of mini treats, sold by the pound, ranging from cheesy chips to oatmeal raisin mini-bones, and I didn’t put up a fight.

Next we headed to National Jean Company, at High and Buttles. We have to admit, there are countless clothing stores, in all of which we easily could have found something wearable, but we just didn’t have the time nor the patience. The NJC space is loft like and airy, with equally as much selection for men as for women (an admirable thing in any market). Customer service was uber-friendly, and low pressure, a departure from the usual and perhaps indicative of the pervading Midwest culture. P found a great pair of dark straight-leg  jeans, but had to decline the complimentary tailoring due to our travel timeline. The price point is right in line with east coast shops, but if you are in Ohio and you want a bit of an high end retail experience buying your $300 denim and ‘one of a kind’ T’s, then Short North has lots of options.

With our requisite apparel purchases under our belt, the hunger hit us.

Earlier in the day I'd over heard a store clerk at Tiger Tree moaning about buttery icing on a cupcake he was eating and somehow had wherewithal to ask the origins of the item. A "booth in a market near the convention center" was all I could recall by them time we’d realized we needed to eat. Sounded risky, but Columbus had impressed so far, so we thought we'd give it a try. 

The whole day we'd been passing cute, rustic, modern, and divey spots that all looked great for a bite. Short North really has it all when it comes to dining options, but we made our way down High Street in search of this as yet unnamed market place.

North Market

 

As the pangs of hunger matured into full on waves of ravenous anger, we turned the corner of Spruce and Park and there it was! 

The North Market, proximate to a cluster of local college bars and nightlife establishments, was renovated in 1995 and is a major foodie draw. Currently housed in a sprawling warehouse, the market space was originally established in 1876 as one of 4 city markets, but was destroyed by a fire in 1948. With the help of the North Market Development Authority (NMDA) an effort was undertaken to resurrect, protect and further the culinary and cultural tradition of the market in Columbus during the 1980's and 1990's. The NMDAs efforts restored the quality of the market to becomes one of the best in the country, culminating in the opening of the new space at 59 Spruce street in 1995.

We approached cautiously, careful not to get too excited as public markets often disappoint. Like everything else so far on our trip, the market was an overwhelmingly pleasant surprise. P and I were in heaven, we literally jogged through the doors, pointing like tourists (guilty!) at the epicurean delights.  We didn't try it all, so if you want to know about the 30+ merchants and farmers the market has to offer, you'll have to check it out yourself.

I will, however, run down what we enjoyed. We kind of threw together a smorgasbord of a lunch, grabbing a plate, bowl, or basket of whatever caught our eye (don't judge) which made for a delicious and diverse experience.
  • Brēzel - Bavarian pretzel with spicy mustard - perfectly chewy with a salty bite
  • Lan Viet Market - Vietnamese beef, chili sauce, rice, vermicelli, and beans sprouts - Umami noodle fix
  • Holy Smoke BBQ - hand-cut paprika potato chips, smoked pulled chicken (perfectly tangy and rich = two helpings!), mac & cheese, tater tots - this is the spot for comfort food
  • Flavors of India - Lamb masala, garlic naan, and chickpea/pea curry - another umami moment that almost put us over the edge with it's richness and heat
  • Omega Artisan Baking - Moan worthy buttery icing
  • Destination Donuts - buttermilk donut - ultimate weakness (warning, it is a 'daystall' so not always vending)
  • North Market Spices - 5 spice, garam masala, Za'atar, and 'fire salt' to take home - They have everything from cardamom pods to deep red chili powder, a must for any cook or aspiring cook

Back to Short North


Goodale Park
Our appetites sated, and palates exhausted, we headed back to the main drag to see what else Short North had in store. Harry insisted we meander through picturesque Goodale Park, with it’s mature trees and idyllic fountain. P and I were equally as taken with the gorgeous brick Victorians that lined the park in aptly named Victoria Village neighborhood.

Perhaps it was the 99 Black berries the night before (no P I won’t let you forget), or just all the walking, but we soon grew tired, and decided to start heading back to the car. This was until we spotted T. David Collection. Another tiny storefront, this place is a designer’s gathering of home furnishings and accoutrements, not something two gays can simply pass by. We needed our decorating fix and this was perfect. While most pieces were a bit ornate for our taste, we fell in love with a 50's orange tweed side chair, and almost took it home. Our wits about us, we were about to leave when I spotted the most incredible set of 50's ombre silver grade tumblers and collins glasses I had ever seen. For Christmas last year, my best friend had given us champagne ‘coupes’ (wide rimmed and shallow like martini glasses) in the same finish. They look a bit like mercury glass only smooth (not mottled) and graded from bright silver to translucent gray. The T. David set was the perfect complement and at $40 for all 8, it was a steal we couldn't pass up. Glasses in hand, and tablescape triumph in our hearts, we left Short North headed for the German Village and our next Columbus adventure.

German Village


Schmidt's in German Village
This section would be longer, and the neighborhood certainly deserves it, but we have to be honest and say that the day had really gotten the best of us, so we decided to tour this area from the comfort of the car. The German village is a rather large area, centered around 3rd Street and south of downtown, but with most of the charm found in tiny cafes on narrow alleyways or in stately Victorians and quaint bungalows tucked along tree lined streets you really need time to wander on foot. You’ll find the original Max & Erma’s here along with the famous Katzinger’s Deli. We will most certainly be back for a visit to Schmidt's, the neighborhood's ubiquitous German Sausage Haus. Sights seen, and plans made for the next trip, we headed back to Granville for a nap.

We may or may not have stopped at a former Pizza Hut turned Mexican joint in an unnamed town for Margarita’s along the way, but there are some things that should just be left unsaid.

Saturday Night in Columbus


Saturday night started out with a sip of wine and bite of cheese at the Orchard House. P and I planned on taking his brother, his girlfriend, and a friend out for a nice night on the town. Having persevered through the horror that is campus living in our not so distant past, we thought it was a good idea to give them a taste of real life (not to mention P is pretty much the best big brother I know).

Unfortunately, dinner was so so, a random new place in Short North, not worth mentioning by name. It’s really a shame as this marred what could have been a memorable Saturday evening of wining and dining, I guess there’s always next time.... or dessert!

Where this leads us is the chance to say that any time you are in Columbus, or Ohio for that matter, you MUST get custard at Whit’s. Founded in Granville by a local couple in 2003 and with several locations throughout the state, you really have no excuse not to enjoy the smooth, creamy, and never too sweet frozen treats.... In an effort to forget dinner, we tried every flavor, the "Almond Joy" with dark chocolate and coconut that somehow still stays crunchy was transcendent, whups! 

Sunday


Saturday late-night was spent socializing on campus once again, but this time we all thought better of the fruity shots. We turned in relatively early, mostly on account of Harry’s grumpy attitude (such an old man sometimes) and got another great night’s sleep. We awoke to delicious breakfast of decadent Cinnamon Roll Bread Pudding with country sausage and recounted our adventures with owner/cook Andrew. He’s a former DC gay turned B&B entrepreneur/farmhand, so he has similar sensibilities. What we discovered in our musings is that we really enjoyed our time in Columbus. Perhaps grounded in the comfort we felt just being at the Orchard House, we’d allowed ourselves enjoy a city and a region that we’d never thought would be a stopping point in our busy, urban lives. In doing so, we got to appreciate the value in leaving behind preconceptions of a place and seeing where a city or town can take you. Lucky for us, Columbus has a wealth of the tasteful and tasty for visitors to enjoy, and we will most certainly be back for more.


Notes from the Chase

Below is a list of places mentioned, as well a a few more worth noting:

As if wasn’t clear, we LOVED the Orchard House, and give it a glowing recommendation for anyone headed to the area, or really anyone looking for a romantic, comfortable, countryside getaway. (And they're dog friendly!!!)




Monday, April 22, 2013

Discovery Channel Nerd...a coming out story for Earth Day


Considering the fact that I used to say I wanted to be a Prong-Horned Antelope whenever anyone asked me what I wanted to be when I grow up, it will come as no surprise that Earth Day has a special place in my heart.

Despite my mother's kind assertions that I really could be anything I wanted to be, I eventually grew out of the ungulate phase. That wasn't without spending countless hours glued to every Discovery Channel, National Geographic or Disney special having anything to do with the natural world. My mother could probably still produce the countless VHS tapes on which I insisted having everything recorded, in case I ever want to re-live the adventure of the Outback Brumby or the excitement of the Hyenas of Ngorongoro Crater. My toys were 100% wild animals (except for the Barbies) and I spent every warm summer day "helping" my mother in the garden by playing 'Amazon Rainforest' on her tomato plants. It goes without saying that every middle school science project surrounded some obscure bovine from the jungles of sub-saharan Africa. Thanks to a bout with homeschooling, my awkward stage was spent safely in the confines of the Dorling Kindersly Encyclopedia of the Animals. My parents nurtured this passion for planet earth in so many ways; constant family hikes, an in-home recycling center, and never laughing at my four-hooved career ambitions - for this I will forever be grateful. 

The natural world was (and still is) everything to me, awesome and inspirational. I lived to learn about every newly discovered species and mourned every new mention on the endangered list. As every Earth day came around at school, you had better believe I was decked out in the latest "Save Our Planet" 90's couture, forever proud to show my spirit for Mother Earth. 

I may have traded "Wings over the Serengeti" for the Real Housewives of Atlanta (equally primitive and tragic I must add), but I am a true Discovery Channel Nerd at heart. It has been and always will be a part of who I am. I will admit to correcting someone recently on the difference between Dromedary and Bactrian camels (don't ask me why it came up) and getting a little too excited when I spotted a manatee on a recent trip to Florida, but I wear the badge with honor and today is my day to celebrate

While social media seems to have diluted the meaning by allowing for an inundation of Earth Day proclamations, I still find it heartening that despite the demands of these times, so many people still find the time to share their love for the planet on which we live.

We decided to give our nod to Earth Day through our dinner tonight. Bon Appetit's Spring Vegetable Risotto with Poached Egg (Page 90, April 2013) is both a delicious expression of the earth's bounty and a gentle reminder of the humble beginning of every living thing. I'll let you digest the metaphor while we enjoy dinner.

A few notes:

  • Choose the seasonal vegetables you like. I chose english peas simply because they are P's absolute favorite. 
  • Try poaching the eggs ahead of time so you get the nerves out of the way
Ingredients

  • 2 cups shelled fresh (or frozen, thawed) english peas
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
  • 4 large organic eggs (or as many as people you are feeding)
  • 8 cups low-sodium chicken broth (I used water tonight)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
  • 1/4 pound crimini (baby bella) mushrooms, quartered
  • 2 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 large leeks, whites and pale greens only, chopped
  • 1 fennel bulb, chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 cups arborio rice
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 2 handfuls baby spinach
  • 1 1/2 cups finely grated Pecorino
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives plus more for serving
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper

Preparation

  • Eggs: Bring a large skillet of salted water to a bare simmer over medium-low heat. Add vinegar. Crack 1 egg into a small bowl, then slide into simmering water. Cook until whites are cooked but yolks are runny, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water. Repeat with remaining eggs.
  • Risotto: Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large, wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to bowl with the peas.
  • Heat oil and remaining 1 tablespoon butter in same pot over medium heat. Add leeks, fennel, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened, about 4 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat and rice begins to look translucent, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until evaporated, about 4 minutes. 
  • Add 1 cup broth/water. Cook on medium heat, stirring often (no need to stir constantly), until liquid is almost absorbed. Add remaining water/broth by cupfuls, allowing it to be absorbed before adding more, stirring often, until rice is tender but still firm to the bite and mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes total. (this is the part where the cook finishes that bottle of white wine)
  • Add spinach, 1 cup grated Pecorino, and reserved peas and mushrooms to risotto. Cook, stirring occasionally, until spinach is wilted and cheese is melted, about 2 minutes. Season risotto with salt and more cheese
  • A few minutes before risotto is done, reheat poached eggs in a large skillet of simmering water, about 1 minute.
  • Divide risotto among bowls and top with eggs, more Pecorino, chives, black and crushed red pepper







Saturday, April 20, 2013

Gay Fishing - In Pursuit of Umami - Bon Appetit April 2013 92-94


Before you even go there, no it’s not a “move” nor is it something we do on Saturday nights at last call, “Gay Fishing” is a thing, at least P and I think so, and we want everyone to try it.

Now, I don’t mean to offend with our take on this hallmark of masculinity and by no means is this an assault on what may be the holiest of holy hetero pastimes but honestly, it is time someone put a spin on the old bait and hook.

There are 4 Tenets of Gay Fishing:
  1. It is NOT about the sport - It is most certainly about the carefully selected seasonal recipe featuring locally sourced produce and an inspired wine selection that you intend to accompany your catch.
  2. No Experience Required - You absolutely do not need to know what you’re doing, really, the less the better, you’ll enjoy it more.
  3. Stay Hydrated - and by that we mean with cocktails or mini versions of your favorite brewed beverage.
  4. Always Bring the Drama - because otherwise it’s just fishing.

You may ask, how did we come up with the Tenets of Gay Fishing? Well let me tell you a story...

Now most fishing stories begin with a line about “the crack of dawn” or something ridiculous like that. I can tell you that in the summer, the closest I get to the “crack of dawn” is an 8am skinny dip in the Vineyard Sound. So, with the knowledge that our summer mornings usually revolve around a cup of hazelnut coffee and perhaps a run (if we’re feeling bloated), you have to know that an account of a fishing trip is going to come with it’s creature comforts.

Rather than “the crack of dawn” this story starts around 2pm on the shores of Lake Tashmoo on Martha’s Vineyard, our summertime haunt as often as we can make it. The bocce game had just ended but the sun was shining and the temperature was a perfect 80. Anyone who has spent time or money (on time) on the Cape or the Islands knows you don’t waste a day like this. We’d spent the last few days in the sun on the beach and just weren’t into wasting another day on sedentary indulgence (I can’t believe I just said that) so we decided to head out on a fishing trip. 

This is where the Gay Fishing starts. First tenant of Gay Fishing, it isn’t about the sport, it’s always about the recipe and the wine pairing. In our case, we lusted after the most divine fish tacos we’d ever had at the table of our good friend Whitney. Thoughts of sea bass, sautéed in fresh tomatoes, onions, and garlic, served with a fresh jalapeño, napa & red cabbage slaw and topped with greek yogurt chipotle pepper ‘sour cream’, nestled in a warm corn tortilla and washed down with a snappy Vernaccia were all we needed to gather the mini cooler and jump into the boat. 

We piled in the Lucky Lu around 3:00pm and headed out onto the Sound, 2-dozen coronitas in hand and fish tacos on the mind, armed with a fish finder and absolutely 0 relevant fishing experience under our belts. We made our way to some of the familiar spots, Lamberts Cove and Cedar Tree Neck. Using squid for bait (gross I know) we cast a few lines. As we drifted in the wind we managed to land a few Scup. And by we, I mean everyone else, I was clearly taking advantage of the reflection of the sun on the water to try to tan those hard to reach places. Further, why we were catching such a small and ugly fish was beyond me until, of course, I was informed by P’s brother’s girlfriend, as she reeled in her 5th catch like a seasoned back water pro, these Scup were to be used as baitfish. Lesson learned, and image of my fish tacos safe, I breathed a sigh of relief and found myself growing excited about the prospect of landing a sea monster (it probably had a lot to do with the beer and the sun, but that’s neither here nor there). I decided to put my new found fishing enthusiasm to work and began to strategize about where to look for the prize fish, the striper. I drew a blank.

Second tenet of Gay Fishing; no experience or knowledge required. Plenty of Scup on board, we all looked cluelessly at each other with no clear path to the prize fish.  We pondered the legendary successes of past summers, fishing in various locations, casting a few lines, but nothing, and I mean nothing. Harry was growing weary, I was too but at least I had the Coronitas to stave off the boredom that comes with fishing failures. 

Third tenant of Gay Fishing is to keep well hydrated, preferably with something low calorie and in an aesthetically pleasing and highly portable bottle. In my case, I like the way one can cram at least 2-dozen little Coronitas in a reasonably sized cooler and still have room for the Espresso Patron and maybe even a block of cheese. I mean if you aren’t catching anything then doing shots of this potent tequila hybrid is pretty much the only way to enjoy the long hours. 

As the hours went by, sun began to set, the Coronitas dwindled, and tempers began to flare, we finally turned our attention to the break. That line in the water where the direction of the current changes and the white kicks up into the air, it was calling our name. Realizing our visions of fish tacos were quickly becoming a fantasy, we cast into the white caps with abandon. Suddenly it happened, something took P’s Scup, something big. My heart started pounding as everyone leapt into action. P was handling it like a pro, shouting to ensure everyone else would calm down, he was a vision of proficiency. He filtered out the meaningless advice we hurled his way, it was chaos. Moments later it broke the surface, a flash of silver, larger than anything I had ever seen before (mind you my fishing is limited to catching carp in the local pond). Once the beast was sighted it was all a blur, what felt like seconds later, P, H, and R were throwing the thrashing monster onto the deck of the Lucky Lu. 

That’s when the real drama began (4th tenet if you’re counting). Harry had been a quiet observer the whole time, silently watching the horizon and occasionally peeking into the bait bucket. When the gargantuan striper (later determined to be be over 39”) hit the deck, he lost it. Harry let out a shriek like we had never heard before. Part 5th grade girl and part banshee, the high pitched and sustained scream could have curdled the coolest of vampire blood. We’d never heard a sound like that in our lives, and probably never will. Mouth wide open and eyes bulging out of his head, I grabbed the poor thing in an attempt to calm him but the shrieking continued as P’s father and brother did battle with the thrashing mass of silver and scales. It was probably no more than 30 seconds before the fish was in the hull, but it sounded like eternity. Harry was breathless, we were speechless. We burst into laughter, doubled over at the sound we had just heard from little Harry. The humanoid range and guttural bass were akin to the sound one might imagine hearing from a frightened drag queen who forgot to shave on show night, it had us hysterical. It didn’t matter that we’d been at it for hours, that we were effectively hungover, nor did it matter that we had no idea how to butcher this monster - Harry had brought the Drama and brought the house down. 

I recall the butchering process to be rather revolting and undoubtedly sloppy. The tacos were delicious, but the thing we all took away from the fishing trip was an incredible story to tell, and tell, and tell again, about "Harry’s Scream Heard 'Round the Sound".

I would love to convince you the re-telling of this fish tale was born out of a lazy evening in the garden, sipping something transcendent out of the Loire Valley and being transported to the seaside just outside of Nice, but it wasn’t...You see, the temperature passed 90F on April 10th in Baltimore, so in reality this post was born standing in the kitchen in not-so-white-anymore undershirts, sweating profusely, slugging our trademark Sonics and agonizing over how to cook dinner without adding to BGE’s (the energy company) bottom line.

It was on that oppressively hot April afternoon in Baltimore that we decided to re-live the excitement of that summer day and cook up some rock fish. In anticipation of the heat, I had picked up some local wild caught filets from Fleet Street Market. P and I had fallen in love with the image of the Tarragon Roasted Halibut with Hazelnut brown butter from page 92 of Bon Appetit but wanted make a full dinner of it. I love to cook with fresh herbs so the tarragon was a must, obviously the hazelnut brown butter wasn’t going anywhere. Instead, we simply substituted the Halibut for our cherished local fish and decided that lemon garlic sauteed haricot verts were the perfect textural and nutritional complement to the main dish. Instead of roasting in the oven, we used a grill basket, lined with foil half way up the sides, placed on a hot grill to simulate the roasting process. Calling this “Groasting” is weird, so we’ll say “Grill-Roasting” as cumbersome as that may be. The rock fish ended up cooked oh so perfectly and it picked up the aromatics of the tarragon in a way I had never imagined. When drizzled in the hazel brown butter and set atop the green beans, it was a vision and a taste like I had never had before. It almost made us want to go Gay Fishing...again.

Enjoy!

Tarragon Grill-Roasted Rockfish with Hazelnut Brown Butter

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup blanched hazelnuts (or just buy chopped hazelnuts)
  • 1 large bunch fresh tarragon
  • 1 1/2 pound skin on Rockfish fillett
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 4 Lemon halves
  • 1/2 lbs haricot verts
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced thin
Preparation

  • Preheat oven to 350°. Spread hazelnuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, stirring occasionally, until golden, 8-10 minutes. Coarsely chop; set aside. 
  • In a grill rack, lined with foil half way up the sides, scatter tarragon and place rockfish (skin down) on top, drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil, season with salt and pepper, and squeeze two lemon halves over top. 
  • Grill-Roast on high heat until rockfish is just opaque in the center, 20-30 minutes, depending on thickness of fish. (leave the lemon halves used to juice on the grill with the fish)
  • Meanwhile, melt butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often, until butter foams, then browns (don't let it burn), about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let brown butter cool slightly. Stir in lemon juice, hazelnuts, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil; season with salt and pepper.
  • Once brown butter has foamed, being sautéing green beans with sliced garlic in evoo until bright green and just beginning to become tender
  • Serve fish atop green beans, with hazelnut brown butter sauce drizzled all over and garnish charred lemon halves.












Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Back to Our Roots - Bon Appetit Page 97 - Guten Appetit!




As I mentioned, I come from an Irish blood. Equally present in my bloodline, however, is my German heritage. Many who know me may tell you that my Teutonic tendencies are a rather defining characteristic. While not always manifested in the most charming of ways, I identify strongly with this culture of efficiency, determination and steadfast spirit. Perhaps for that reason I have a particular affinity for the food of Deutschland and moreover all the lands the former Holy Roman Empire (Germany, Austria, Czech Republic usw.).

My family hails from a small town in Bavaria in the district of Neumarkt, this is not going to come as a surprise to anyone who has ever seen pictures of the toe headed brood from which I come, one can almost see my siblings and I running through the Alpenvorland in mini-lederhosen singing at the top of our lungs, typical...

Traditional German food, despite the lively and buxom-blonde-haired-blue-eyed-drndled-clad-in-a-biergarten culture surrounding it, is typically quite basic, often referred to as peasant food. That might also be said for the cuisine of P’s people, he is of Czech decent, and while there are absolute differences, the food of these nations have come from similar countryside and experience.

Rutabaga soup might have defined an era of hardship for many Germans and Czechs during WWI & II, but the cuisine of the former HRE is not defined by nor limited to root vegetables and cooking for subsistence alone. I know what you’re saying, “everyone loves a good sausage, who doesn't? and who can resist schnitzel? and that’s really all there is”….but that’s just not true. Now, I have to mention here, the cuisine of 21st Germany is about as varied and ambiguous as the ethnicity itself. With a population that is a true melting pot (yum cheese) of natives, immigrants, and refugees from around the globe, contemporary German cuisine is driven by the countless imbissbuden (snack shops) that line the city streets and purvey dishes from Africa to Southeast Asia  – Currywurst or Döner Kabob are about as German as Bratwurst at this point. This could lead to a whole new conversation about what is it to be a “German” today- or really a “European” for that matter - but I’ll let you think about that and get back to the food.

One of the best meals of my life was enjoyed not in Paris nor Rome, but in Berlin. Schweinhaxe, roasted skin-on smoked ham hock that takes on the texture of butter, served in the basement of the house once own by Berthold Brecht, honestly changed my life (I tell P about it all the time - eye roll). This was the embodiment of what I love about this food, savory, warm, rich, tangy, and filling - almost carnal (I'm blushing).

The food of our Czech and German heritage is about the salty, crispy skin on a pig foot that makes one moan because we really shouldn't love it so much, it’s the spicy bite of mustard on Weiswurst making the eyes water and clearing the sinuses, it is the comfort one gets from devouring a whole savory Kohlrouladen (holubky), the sexy, slippery minerality of a beautiful Reisling, the delicate aromatics of Pfeffernüsse or anise of Vanillekipferl, and the decadent buttery mouthful of Stollen (Vanoka) mit Kaffe…I could go on and on.


This is a gastronomy born from the land and its development tempered by years of war and economic hardship, so getting back to our roots means enjoying food in an uncomplicated way. Without the constraints of strict and overbearing culinary tradition, cooking this way allows the senses to take over – it allows the salt content to be a little higher, the sweet to be roasted out just a little more - this is the way you want to eat.

I was inspired to turn to the cooking of our Vorfahren by the images on page 97 of Bon Appetit April 2013, the Mustard Crusted Pork with Farro and Carrot Salad looked insane! I picked up a pork loin the next day, and threw it in the freezer, knowing this recipe was sure to make it to the plate at some point this month.

When our friend Erin stopped over one day, and while perusing our magazines, declared her love for mustard, I knew the time had come. We planned a dinner date for the following week and I started salivating. 

This recipe offered the perfect way to enjoy the food and the culture we love without venturing into the realms of heavy, more wintry dishes. The farro is a low-shame way to get our starchy fix, with less gluten bulk than pasta or potatoes, it carries a nice nutty flavor and an appealing tooth. Earthy carrots, shaved thin into ribbons, and sautéed to bring out their sweetness, lend brightness to the palate and color to the plate. Then there is the pork, crispy and spicy mustard crust is the perfect way to cut through the rich and slightly fatty nature of the meat. This is pork done simply but raised to another level, it's one of my favorite meals this season.

A few tips:
  • Buy a meat thermometer!!! Especially useful when cooking something like pork which can be disastrous if over or under cooked.
  • You can make the farro ahead of time, toss with a little evoo, and chill in the fridge
  • This would be great with a rich Riesling or Grüner Veltliner if I were to attempt a pairing

GUTEN APPETIT!

Ingredients

  • 1 2lb pound boneless pork loin
  • Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 cup spicy brown mustard
  • 1/4 whole grain mustard
  • 2 tbsp mustard powder (or as much as your pantry can spare, I love the way it holds the more viscous mustard together)
  • ½ cup olive oil, divided
  • 2 cups farro
  • ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tbsp honey
  • 1 pound carrots (rainbow if available, yes we're food bougy), very thinly sliced lengthwise on a mandoline if you own one, if not, slice VERY carefully with a knife OR use a peeler and they will be more like ribbons
  • 1 Small red onion, very thinly sliced into rings, rings separated
  • 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped

Preparation

  • Place pork in a roasting pan, salt and pepper heavily
  • Whisk mustard, mustard powder, and 1/4 cup oil in a small bowl to blend. Rub over pork, cover, and chill in fridge until you're ready to star cooking in earnest
  • Preheat oven to 425°. Roast pork until beginning to brown, 25-30 minutes. Reduce heat to 350° and roast until a thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 145°, 25-35 minutes longer, depending on thickness of roast.
  • While pork is roasting, cook farro in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, 30-35 minutes; drain as you would pasta, rinse with cold water, and then toss in colander with a little evoo.
  • Whisk vinegar, honey, and remaining 1/4 cup oil in a medium bowl; set vinaigrette aside.
  • Heat 2 tbps evoo in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add carrots and cook, tossing often, until carrots soften, add farro and onions until farro is warmed through, about 3 minutes.
  • Remove from heat and transfer to a large bowl. Add parsley and vinaigrette to taste; season with salt and pepper and toss to combine.
  • Slice pork and serve over farro salad.
 




Thursday, April 4, 2013

Pad Thai According to Harry




Whether it’s your last minute take-out fall back or your hangover prevention tool (always eaten standing up in your kitchen at 3am), Pad Thai is the ubiquitously over-done and over-consumed staple of the 20-something proletariat set. More often than not it’s a subpar experience, about as authentic as Dominos. That said, we are not above a huge bowl of a Pad Thai, slathered in Siracha of course, in fact it’s one of our favorite things to cook together.

While there is obvious appeal to the tangy, savory, fishy, umami that is good Pad Thai, we really make it because it’s Harry’s favorite. You may ask, how does a dog have a favorite noodle dish, not to mention sway over his Daddys’ cooking choices? Well you haven’t met Harrison...

P found Harry while perusing Petfinder.com in search of a rescue in the “Cairn” category. We had been searching for months for just the right fit, applied for several, and met with no success. It was just another night on the sofa - watching House Hunters and berating the potential home buyers for their particular version of the unrealistic real estate expectations of the suburban American public - when his face popped onto the screen. It was love at first sight! Note: The location of these rescues can be rather confusing as occasionally the rescue organization is located in one state, while the actual animal is being fostered in another, this is relevant, I promise. We thought it over for a full second, then sent an email to inquire/apply.

A few emails later, our credentials fully verified, we had him, on one condition, we drive to pick him up in person (I told you location would be relevant). Well as it turns out, his location was not within the prescribed 50 mile radius surrounding Baltimore, in fact, not even close. Bluefield, West Virginia is about as close to Baltimore as, well…Providence RI. But it didn’t matter, we had fallen deeper and deeper in love with his little face every day that passed, constantly refreshing petfinder just to see that mug. P will kill me for admitting this, but we are guilty of texting each other his petfinder profile picture several times a dat throughout the work week (whups).

Having mapped our route, and taken vacation days from work, we woke up at 4am one cold February morning, and headed on our way. We enjoyed the scenery (and a few snacks) as we passed through Virginia horse country around the Shenandoah National Park, babbling about what the little one would be like, and what we would name him, it was all a little much (per usual). Around Roanoke we arrived on the name Houston, after Whitney (obviously) who had just passed, thanks goodness we got over that….talk about a cliché, and honestly, who would answer to “Houghy!”….

It wasn’t until we got off 81, and in the pouring rain we entered the Jefferson National Forest that the reality began to set in….we were going to be doggie parents! P immediately projected his anxiety on Gruff, as he was known at the time, panicking about his temperament or even that he might be chubbier than his profile pic - "What if he's fat?!?" (through choked back tears) I, on the other hand, worried silently about our ability to manage his needs and the demands of our work lives. Before we knew it, we were in the parking lot of a Big-K off a frontage road (I know…) staring into each others eyes and realizing….we forgot a water bowl for the 6+ hour ride home.

With his arrival imminent, P ran into the Big-K to purchase a substitute (he's so brave). While he was in the store, a pick-up pulled up, out of which stepped two people who changed our lives forever, and in their arms, the face we fell in love with a few short weeks ago. In the driving rain, I took him in my arms and he clung to me like a child, actually hugging me with those little legs and paws. I looked up and locked eyes with P as he emerged from the sliding doors and I saw his heart melt over the fox-like little nugget in my arms. We held him together for a short time, then chatted briefly with the fosters about vet logistics, before being forced into the car by the deluge. We lingered a while, hearts pounding as Gruff snuggled between us, we were speechless. He was perfect, small, affectionate (almost to a human extent) and spirited as terriers are. All our fears vanished as soon as we held him, and we started our journey home with our expanded family. I don’t recall if it was before or after the stop at 5 Guys but we glanced at the map and instantly knew his name. As we passed Harrisonburg, VA, Gruff became Harry, forever a reminder of the long journey to bring him into our lives.

Until you’ve met him, and you have looked into his sparkling eyes, seen the way he prances around the house, heard him sigh from under the sheets, or throw a sideways glance as misbehaving dogs and children often do, you really just don’t know the power he can have over a person. Harry is the light of our lives, he gives us something to look forward to after a long day of work, and provides the emotional common ground that many young couples need from time to time. He is everything to us, ask anyone who knows us (or just look at my instagram) and you will know just how much power he has over our lives.

So... I know I’ve been waxing poetically over Harrison, nearly 1000 words at this point, but this is only to provide some insight into why we call Pad Thai Night Harry’s favorite and is consistently one of our favorite things to make.

Harry is a picky eater, the sound of kibble in his bowl doesn’t even wake him in the morning. One day, frustrated by the lack of interest he was showing in his dinner, I threw him a carrot. He went nuts! Running in circles, wolfing it down, and jumping up and begging for more. Since then we’ve learned that nearly every fresh vegetable sends him into a euphoric frenzy. Acrobatics for cauliflower and singing for broccoli, Harry lives for veggies, and we can’t help but to indulge him.

So, with the carrots, broccoli, cabbage, peppers, and other veggies that abound (and fly off the cutting board) in our ever changing recipe, Pad Thai Night is a veritable smorgasbord for the little guy. While I chop and cook the veggies, P indulges Harry with his favorite morsels, eliciting barks, yelps and occasionally I swear I see a back flip. It is a cacophonous cooking experience, but we love it!

In reality, this post is not an ode to Pad Thai, but really a thinly veiled and shameless way to introduce you to Harry.

The following recipe varies greatly depending on the produce we find available, and I admit we use a pre-made sauce, but preparing Pad Thai is one of the truest pleasures in our lives and one of our favorite meals that we would be remiss not to share.




Pad Thai According to Harry
(this recipe is a loose framework from which to start)

Ingredients:
 
-          1 box Annie Chun’s brown rice noodles
-          1-2 jars Thai Kitchen Pad Thai Sauce
-          2 table spoons hot chili oil
-          Fish, oyster, or soy sauce to taste (sometimes we like to add some ginger sauce too)
-          3 chicken breasts chopped
-          3 eggs beaten
-          2 garlic cloves chopped
-          3 oz extra firm tofu (we often skip this but worth trying if you feel like it)
-          1 bag bean sprouts (keep in the fridge as the cold garnish adds a fresh bite)
-          Some crushed peanuts when available in your pantry
-          1 lime to squeeze once finished
-          Veggies – All chopped to about the same size – makes cooking time easier to manage – you might also want to use the lid as steaming can move cooking along a bit
o       Broccoli
o       Scallions (greens reserved for garnish)
o       Bell peppers (use red, yellow, or orange for color)
o       Purple cabbage
o       Napa cabbage
o       Peas
o       Carrots
o       Jalapeños
o       Baby bok choy (quartered)
o       Cauliflower
o       Shiitake mushrooms

Preparation:
-          Heat chili oil and garlic in large wok. Once hot, add denser veggies first, stir frying until they begin to tender. Once all veggies have been cooked to just about done, transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
-          Drop chicken in remaining oil in the wok and stir fry. When just about cooked through, whisk in eggs with a fork.
-          While preparing the veggies and chicken boil water and cook rice noodles for about 8 mins, drain and return to pot tossed in some pad thai sauce. (you can sear the tofu in this step if you have it on hand)
-          Once chicken is done, turn heat to low, pour noodles in wok add a little more pad thai sauce, top with veggies and work it all together. Add in the remaining pad thai sauce and any other sauces to taste and consistency you like.
      -         Serve in large colorful bowl, top with peanuts, scallions, lime juice and chilled bean sprouts.
-          Cover in Siracha and enjoy