Syracuse Salt Potato Salad - American - Sides 4

Salt Potatoes are a dish synonymous with Syracuse, NY and is a staple of the region's summer time and cookout cuisine. Born out of the lunch-time tradition of the many salt-workers that supported the salt industry from the springs and marshes along Onondaga Lake, their appeal eventually extended beyond the industrial water front centers and became a favorite across Central New York by the early 1900's and remain so today. So much so in fact, that they are a permanent resident on the menu of Dinosaur BBQ restaurants, which is now one of the city's best known modern day exports with locations opening up as far south as our very Baltimore. This is where I first tasted, and fell in love with the savory fluffy (never water-logged) Salt Potato.

I've been exploring options for side dishes and snacks that can be taken for lunch, the typical fare of carrots and hummus or tuna salad just aren't cutting it anymore. I picked some red skin potatoes recently and figured I would try to put a spin on one of Mark's Syracuse favorites. This would serve a dual purpose in that I am also developing recipes for our upcoming engagement party, for which I am determined to prepare all the food for the "Maryland meets Syracuse" themed affair.

Typically the salt potato is boiled in briny water, then tossed in or otherwise infused with a bit of garlic. I decided I wanted to steep the potatoes in a combination of garlic and fresh herbs in additional to the salt. I used black pepper, dried thyme, garlic powder and lots of fresh whole rosemary springs to create the fragrant brine. It filled my kitchen with the most delicious savory steam as the potatoes boiled and my mouth was watering by the time I was done. I carefully removed the potatoes once fork tender, so as to retain the cooking solution. I had decided, as the scent intoxicated me (OK maybe it was wine), that I would reserve the liquid and use it to brine for chicken to be used at some later date. I patted myself on the back for my ingenuity and resourcefulness.

Once the potatoes had cooled a but, I plucked 2 or 3 springs of fresh rosemary and gave the leaves a fine chop. I did the same to 2 stalks of crunchy celery, and combined it all with about a 1/2 cup of mayo in the potato bowl. Before I mixed it all together, I took some sweet and tender roasted garlic I had made a week earlier and had been keeping in my fridge and added it to the salad-to-be. The cloves were super fragrant and buttery soft, so when i began to toss the mixture together then combined smoothly with the other ingredients.

What resulted was savory, herbaceous, with a subtle crunch that lent a refreshing aspect to the typical potato salad. At an elemental level the dish was incredibly straightforward, at least on paper, but it was elevated by the adoption of the "Salt Potato" preparation, technical success! It was absolutely delicious, eliciting a far more positive response from Mark than I could have hoped for. This is one side that will have a permanent place in my repertoire, despite the fact it wasn't the most photogenic dish...

Syracuse Salt Potato Salad

Ingredients:

• 6 Large Red Skin potatoes - halved
• 3 Tablespoons salt
• 6 Sprigs of fresh rosemary (3 plucked and leaves finely chopped)
• 2 Stalks celery - chopped
• 1 Table spoon garlic powder
• 1 Tablespoon dried thyme
• 1 Tablespoon ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1 Head of garlic
• 1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Preparation:

Place potatoes in a large pot. (Note: traditional Salt Potatoes were made from young, or smaller potatoes - As I was planning on chopping and quasi-mashing into a potato salad, I used a normal sized spuds, recipe works either way_. Add 3 rosemary springs, and the other spices and herbs. Fill with water until the potatoes are covered. Bring to a boil on medium heat until potatoes are fork tender. Meanwhile, if you do not already have roasted garlic on hand, out the oven on 400F, cut the top off of a garlic head place a head of garlic in a small baking vessel, drizzle with the evoo, and roast for the duration of your potato process. When the potatoes are done, carefully remove them from the cooking liquid, and place in a large mixing bowl. Save the liquid to use for a meat brine (chicken or pork would be perfect). Add the chopped celery, chopped rosemary, mayonnaise, and several cloves of the soft roasted garlic. Combine until evening mixed, serve chilled with a rosemary sprig.

Enjoy

Back to Basics

There seems to be some universally accepted notion that when certain aspects of life are in flux or hard times come upon us, that one is best served to ground oneself in that which is most core, basic and essential, the defining characteristics of identity, values, and lifestyle.

But what is one supposed to do when those very things that define, are those that are called into question and are so shaken that they no longer feel real, much less definitive?

How about a graceful, Victorian style, nervous breakdown? Maybe a public, embarrassing, binge eating episode? Don’t worry, no pressure friends, I am paying my therapist to navigate this minefield with me…brave soul that she is…

You see, this summer has seen some fabulous meals, excruciating moments, trips to the Whitsundays and the South pacific, and ultimately seismic changes in my personal life.

Have no fear, you will get to hear about Fiji, but this post is about finding myself in the basics in the face of overwhelming change. I tested this notion of grounding in the simple things recently, and turns out, it works. It’s not a complete answer to life’s challenges, but doing what you love and what makes you feel good is a great place to start – And for me that’s dinner!

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I planned this test one Wednesday night, and invited my good friend S over for dinner. Not only has he been an incredible sounding board, reality checker, and an integral part of my summer survival experience, but he is also potentially the biggest fan of my cooking and therefore the perfect guest for the dinner at hand. He a took little convincing to make the trip, but when I told him I was making pork chops he was all-in.

Per usual, I’d spent the previous Sunday morning over-buying at the JFX farmer’s market. Overkill on groceries being one of the less painful aspects of being newly single, it has played significantly to the advantage of my friends. During this particular trip, I was seduced by some incredible red chard, bone-in pork chops, red skin new potatoes, and fresh sour cream….among far too many other things….

Planning the meal was a no-brainer - pork chops and warm potato salad, starch and protein – You can’t get much more back to basics than that. 

I marinated the pork in garlic, salt, pepper, a little evoo, and fresh rosemary from my garden. I’d also chopped and par-boiled the potatoes so I could make the salad more easily once S arrived. I saw the fear is his eyes, when I narrowly avoided the meltdown moment when flipping on the grill only to find the propane was spent, but I dodged that bullet, recovered and moved the cooking indoors without so much as a clenched fist.

I placed the potatoes in the bottom of a non-stick pot in some evoo, diced shallots, and fennel, placed the chopped chard on top to let it wilt slightly while the potatoes heated up. Meanwhile, I seared the pork shops with even more garlic and rosemary, an easy and equally as satisfying way to cook them as the grill – Deep breathes…

Once the chard and potatoes were hot, I added the sour cream, some mayo, and a healthy portion of chopped ricotta salata I’d picked up at Fleet Street Market. 

Side note: If you haven’t tried ricotta salata, do! It’s a delightful salty flavor profile, but has been dehydrated as it ages. Due to its low moisture content, it doesn’t melt when combined with warm ingredients or sauces, hence it’s a unique way to add flavor and texture to a dish through cheese.

Back to the dinner… With the potato salad combined, and the chops achieving golden caramelization and perfect medium rare temperature, I plated with a sprig of Rosemary - it was that simple.  If I had to change one thing about the dish, I would have preferred green or yellow chard. The red chard bled, and combined with the red skin potatoes, and the pink of the pork, it made for somewhat of a monochromatic plating – but now I’m nitpicking as it was delicious!

Despite the trials and tribulations that life has and will no doubt continue to send my way, I’ve found a way to ground myself in my cooking and my friends. 

My dishes aren’t always this simple nor the company always the same, but the simple act of preparing a meal and enjoying it with people I love has been a prevailing force of good my life, and I intend to make sure it continues.

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Pork Chops & Warm Potato-Chard Salad

Ingredients:

• 2 bone in pork chops, 1 ½” thick
• 1 bunch chard, rough chop
• 1 large shallot, diced
• 1 small fennel bulb, diced
•  8 - 12 small red skin new potatoes, chopped into uniform pieces and boiled in salted water until fork tender (this can be done ahead of time and refrigerated)
• 4 cloves garlic - 2 sliced, 2 minced
• Evoo (don’t measure, use judgment as needed)
• 5 Sprigs fresh rosemary + 2 for garnish
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• 1 cup sour cream
• ¼ cup mayonnaise (plus more depending on your potato salad “dressing” preferences)
• 2 cups chopped ricotta salata

Preparation:

Pork Chops

•  Marinate the pork in evoo, 2 minced garlic cloves, salt, pepper, and 5 rosemary sprigs overnight in the refrigerator.  Allow to come to room temperature prior to cooking. Press rosemary from marinade and sliced garlic on to each side.

• In a large non-stick pan, over medium heat, warm evoo, and once hot place the pork chops down forcefully to ensure maxim exposure to cooking surface. Cook until caramelization begins and the pork is medium rare, about 5 mins each side depending on heat and thickness.

Warm Potato-Chard Salad

• In a non-stick pot, over medium-hi heat, warm evoo and sautée shallot with the fennel until translucent. Add potatoes and stir to coat with oil.
• Place chard on top and cover, cooking until chard is wilted and potatoes are war
• Remove from heat and add mayo, sour cream, and ricotta salata, stirring gently as not to smash the potatoes but to incorporate the “dressing” evenly
• Plate salad first, place pork chop on the side, and garnish with reserved fresh rosemary sprig.