Maydan

I have been in a bit of a rut lately, down, unmotivated, not even really all that interested in cooking (I know). I won’t dwell on the cause, but I mention itonly to say that last night was truly inspirational.

We were invited to the soft opening of Maydan, sister restaurant to my fave spot Compass Rose. It was such a privilege to be invited to part of such a special and highly anticipated event, made even more special by the fact it was spectacular and delicious.

Having opened several restaurants in my past career, I know the hell that soft openings can usually mean. Now, I only had the guest perspective, and my observations were only of the front of the house, but Maydan had none of that nervous, insanity that I would have expected, it was a pleasure through and through and through.

Arricing at the Manhattan building on Flida Ave, Maydan is tucked down a alley of sorts, at the end of which one finds a beautiful and imposing turqiose door flanked by exposed brick and tiled panels. There is no sign to speak of, but the façade is a fitting invitation for the culiary intiuige that lies within.

Upon entering this formidable doorway one finds themselves in a small antechamber with a host stand, the separation intensifiews the mystery of what lies within, love this effect. The host staff was friendly, but of course they were, it’s the soft opening, no one is bitter yet. I was quickly ushered inside the main bar space where I encountered a beautiful mixture of exposed industrial architecture and subtle eclectic design queues that hint at the cultural traditions represented in the kitchen. The focal point of the room is a massive copper hood that soars to the ceiling and must be 10 feet in diameter. This sits atop an open woodfire grill surrounded by built in (wc) ovens. It’s an open kitchen of sorts, the grilling occurring in front of the bar guests, expo line behind and then the rest of the work tucked neatly out of sight (a lovely balance if I say so myself). The glow of the copper permeates the bar and surrounding room, the Edison bulb lights are all warm and just a little too bright but perfectly placed just above sight lines so what might be an intense glare becomes an almost glittery part of the surrounding ether.

The scene was much calmer than I expected, and despite being late (2.5 hours travel from bmore, woof), I did not feel guilted or rushed in the least, in fact, I was able to enjoy a (Georgian) tempranillo at the bar while we waited for the remainder of our party. The bar was almost full, not crowded. A few high tops had family and friends in good spirits. The owner Rose was a vision, flitting around between guests, servers and the kitchen, sporting her smile and a flowing jewel toned, empire-waisted number that could not have been more apt for the occasion. I hope someone got her picuture.

I should have known this night was going to be special when I ran into one of the managers of Compass Rose, and in our chat over Maydan and life, discovered he too was a figure skater. We clearly bonded over the shared experience of the highs of competition, lows of self loathing and the years of self induced physical abuse. Anyway…

We took in the scene, enjoyed our wine, and had a taste of what I sure will become Maydan’s calling card, the (wc) bread. Hot from the oven, perfectly pillowy with just the right amount of crisp exterior and tooth, this bread is perfection. It was served with a luxuriant tahini that I just could not get enough of.  As a preview to what was to come, this was certainly the way to set the stage.

We were led upstairs to a dining area outfitted with mismatched modern chairs, amazing and richly textured (I think) botanical wall paper, bohemian light fixtures and a few more decorative touches that harken to the part of the global from which the Maydan draws inspiration.

Now the name maydan, I understand, is a word common to many languages from North Africa through to the Middle East and Eurasia, with a fluid spelling, pronunciation, and meaning referring to a gathering place, town center, or market place. A place where people commune, it’s perfect, while not a word or idea from my culture, I am a willing and humble guest in this Maydan. This leads me to the menu.

Drawing on culinary traditions from Morrocco, Tunisia, Lebabanon, Syria, and many more, the menu is both diverse and an authentic representation of home cooking and dining in this wide-reaching region. It is designed to be shared with sections denoting spreads, salads (some are more appetizers, but that’s such a pedantic word), grilled vegetables, seafood, kabobs, more substantial meat plates, and finally condiments. The condiments, turns out, are one of the highlights and are an important part of the theory behind the menu. Ranging from herbal and slightly sweet charmoula, to spicy and earthy harrisa, these are $1 ramekins meant for dipping and slathering on everything across the menu. You absolutely must order them all, and order back-ups when you run out, they’re only $1! I particularly liked the semi-sweet tomato jam, and my fave was this enigmatic, unctuous, garlic infused almost butter called Toum, I actually put it on everything.

So, for a soft opening, typically all or some part of the meal is complimentary, meant to allow invited guests to roam the menu, experience the service and provide feedback for the management in order to guide decision making into full service. We did order just about everything, and that said, I do have some critical feedback, so I am going to get that out of the way first, before I get on to gushing about how much I love Maydan.

Service wise, the minor glitches are so minor that I won’t even mention it, because I know soft openings and these were NOTHING compared to what usually happens. Kinks like clearing plates, extra side dishes (hello it’s free, who cares) and delays in fresh bread (like we really need MORE? actually we do), will be ironed out in a matter of days in a restaurant run by the Compass Rose team. When I asked my fellow diners they thought a few mentioned that they thought that some of the food did not come out as hot as they would have expected. I’ll admit the seafood wasn’t scorching, but honestly it can’t stand up to extreme temperatures without losing its textural appeal, so I am not going to complain when my squid is tender yet tepid. The temp was fine where it counted for me, the beef kabobs, lamb, bread, etc. Now, maybe I am a bad critic, but this is one thing that I rarely notice (I guess I am usually running my mouth or slugging my wine when food hits the table) but it’s worth a mention as did we did hear rumors of issues with their expo heat lamps. I digress. My only material criticism, and I don’t even know if you can call it that, would be that this menu, this restaurant needs a signature. Compass Rose has the Khachepuri, people rave about, travel from near and far to get their fix, and if you’re me you try (and fail) to recreate it yourself. It’s amazing and it alone is the reason I can’t like Gluten Free and will bring me back to Compass Rose for as long as they’ll have me. Maydan needs something like this. The bread and condiments will be their calling card, but I am not going just for that. I mean, I think I know what dish it should be (not telling yet) but I am not sure that Maydan knows and I think that is ok. This is a critical organic marketing process, but I mention it in the hope that management is thoughtful in the evolution of the menu both in the kitchen and in print. Ok, enough feedback, onto the food (and the praise)

As I mentioned we ordered everything, well not everything, but I think we did a decent job, you tell me.

I had been readying myself all day by not eating anything so I was more than prepared to really explore this menu. Our server was knowledgeable in the most accessible, almost casual way, explaining the menu and the concept withtout condescending (you’d be surprised how rare this is, so I appreciated it). When she arrived to take our order we had made a majority of the choices already, but she deftly threw in a few suggestions that turned out to be spot on. We almost missed out on the spreads entirely, but she directed us to the crunch Beiruti Hummus (studded with fresh parley, green peppers, and scallions) because, “well, we’ve all had hummus (knowing eye roll) so try one with a nice crunch.” Later, as we slrted slip in ad, she surpised us with a pate we had not ordered. A light, crunhy, perfectly acidic cabbage salad that was fresher than any slaw I have ever had,. It was the perfect palate cleaners  and was a tablewide favorite.

I’ll proceed lightest to heaviest, hopefully that will make sense.

From the Kitchen

Salads, etc.

Mouneh - Pickled Vegetables – Radishes, carrots, peppers, onions, all perfectly tart and crunchy, great way to whet the appetite

Halloumi – Dukkah (Egyptian spice blend with sesame, sumac) grilled to absolute savory perfection and finished with the sweet counterpoint of honey – I could have eaten three more portions,. I am definitely cheese biaised (as in I love all cheese), but this preparation of halloumi controls what can be overwhelming salt content but maintains the unique umami of this cow, sheep, goat milke delight.

From the Fire;

Baby Eggplant – eggplant, grilled to the perfect char and topped with a sweet, nutty, early combination of pomegranate and walnut sauce. Honeslty, I love egglplant, but I often run out of interesting ways to prepare it. The enigmatic, herbaceous nature of the aubergine is often very difficult to pair with new flavor profiles and in the wrong combo can be downright offensive. This preparation, entirely the contrary, enlightening even. We ended up accidently getting three plates, I am not complaining.

Baby carrots – Cute little roots, grilled to the point their sweetness is coaxed out, these were delightful themselves but even better with a healthy dollop of the spicy harissa condiment.

Squid – body and tentacles, marinated in charmoulah, grilled to exactly the right texture, somebody knows what they are doing with seafood. The delicately briny flavor of the squid, sporting a slight char from the fire, perfectly complemented by the garlic, herbs and sweet perfume of the charmoulah was simple, seafood perfection. Do not miss this plate.

Shrimp – head on shrimp, similarly marinated in the lovely charmouleh, I want to love this dish so much but it kind of fell flat. I mean I love head on shrimp, and while I might have been the only person sucking on them, I did find them a little bland. I think I should have added some of the (wc) the slightly spicy cilantro condiment, but the other crustaceans had already been snatched up before I had a chance to try. I would give them another shot, but not a stand out.

Koobideh – beef kabob with saffron…weirdly amazing. I mean savory yes, beefy (is that a word) yes, the saffron, not something I ever would have expected but such an interesting floral almost funky way to do beef. It lent the kabob an almost sausagey aspect, which I kind of loved. I was slathering this in every condiment and each one gave it a unique characteristic.

Leg of Lamb – This was just out of this world. The leg is slow roasted overnight with a rich, deeply perfumed Syrian spice blend then, when ordered, hung above the open fire for about 30 minutes until it is hot and crispy. The meat is fork tender, smells (enchanting) and the taste is (wc). Dipped in the tomato jam one tastes the sweeter spices in the Syrian blend, spread the garlicky toum on it, and you get all the savory depth you could ever want. This dish will bring me back, and gets my vote for what will become Maydan’s signature.

Dessert was a cardamom cake (which I loved but cardamom is my favorite seet leaning spice of course I did) and this insane hot mozzarella cheese-in-crock creation topped with crunchy honey, nuts (I think pistacios…blame the wine) and rose water. The latter was ridiculous, yea it was cheese, but it was salty, metly, sweet bliss. I have never had a desseert like it or that I enjoyed so much, and apparently neither had my tablemates because in a flash spoons the thing was no longer…

Things we saw pass us by and def need to go back for include the lamb chops, the ‘Aleppo’ lamb kabob, the sardines, and labneh…ok like the other half of the menu, yes it all looks amazing. Our meal was am

 

 

 

I have been in a bit of a rut lately, down, unmotivated, not even really all that interested in cooking (I know). I won’t dwell on the cause, but I mention itonly to say that last night was truly inspirational.

We were invited to the soft opening of Maydan, sister restaurant to my fave spot Compass Rose. It was such a privilege to be invited to part of such a special and highly anticipated event, made even more special by the fact it was spectacular and delicious.

Having opened several restaurants in my past career, I know the hell that soft openings can usually mean. Now, I only had the guest perspective, and my observations were only of the front of the house, but Maydan had none of that nervous, insanity that I would have expected, it was a pleasure through and through and through.

Arricing at the Manhattan building on Flida Ave, Maydan is tucked down a alley of sorts, at the end of which one finds a beautiful and imposing turqiose door flanked by exposed brick and tiled panels. There is no sign to speak of, but the façade is a fitting invitation for the culiary intiuige that lies within.

Upon entering this formidable doorway one finds themselves in a small antechamber with a host stand, the separation intensifiews the mystery of what lies within, love this effect. The host staff was friendly, but of course they were, it’s the soft opening, no one is bitter yet. I was quickly ushered inside the main bar space where I encountered a beautiful mixture of exposed industrial architecture and subtle eclectic design queues that hint at the cultural traditions represented in the kitchen. The focal point of the room is a massive copper hood that soars to the ceiling and must be 10 feet in diameter. This sits atop an open woodfire grill surrounded by built in (wc) ovens. It’s an open kitchen of sorts, the grilling occurring in front of the bar guests, expo line behind and then the rest of the work tucked neatly out of sight (a lovely balance if I say so myself). The glow of the copper permeates the bar and surrounding room, the Edison bulb lights are all warm and just a little too bright but perfectly placed just above sight lines so what might be an intense glare becomes an almost glittery part of the surrounding ether.

The scene was much calmer than I expected, and despite being late (2.5 hours travel from bmore, woof), I did not feel guilted or rushed in the least, in fact, I was able to enjoy a (Georgian) tempranillo at the bar while we waited for the remainder of our party. The bar was almost full, not crowded. A few high tops had family and friends in good spirits. The owner Rose was a vision, flitting around between guests, servers and the kitchen, sporting her smile and a flowing jewel toned, empire-waisted number that could not have been more apt for the occasion. I hope someone got her picuture.

I should have known this night was going to be special when I ran into one of the managers of Compass Rose, and in our chat over Maydan and life, discovered he too was a figure skater. We clearly bonded over the shared experience of the highs of competition, lows of self loathing and the years of self induced physical abuse. Anyway…

We took in the scene, enjoyed our wine, and had a taste of what I sure will become Maydan’s calling card, the (wc) bread. Hot from the oven, perfectly pillowy with just the right amount of crisp exterior and tooth, this bread is perfection. It was served with a luxuriant tahini that I just could not get enough of.  As a preview to what was to come, this was certainly the way to set the stage.

We were led upstairs to a dining area outfitted with mismatched modern chairs, amazing and richly textured (I think) botanical wall paper, bohemian light fixtures and a few more decorative touches that harken to the part of the global from which the Maydan draws inspiration.

Now the name maydan, I understand, is a word common to many languages from North Africa through to the Middle East and Eurasia, with a fluid spelling, pronunciation, and meaning referring to a gathering place, town center, or market place. A place where people commune, it’s perfect, while not a word or idea from my culture, I am a willing and humble guest in this Maydan. This leads me to the menu.

Drawing on culinary traditions from Morrocco, Tunisia, Lebabanon, Syria, and many more, the menu is both diverse and an authentic representation of home cooking and dining in this wide-reaching region. It is designed to be shared with sections denoting spreads, salads (some are more appetizers, but that’s such a pedantic word), grilled vegetables, seafood, kabobs, more substantial meat plates, and finally condiments. The condiments, turns out, are one of the highlights and are an important part of the theory behind the menu. Ranging from herbal and slightly sweet charmoula, to spicy and earthy harrisa, these are $1 ramekins meant for dipping and slathering on everything across the menu. You absolutely must order them all, and order back-ups when you run out, they’re only $1! I particularly liked the semi-sweet tomato jam, and my fave was this enigmatic, unctuous, garlic infused almost butter called Toum, I actually put it on everything.

So, for a soft opening, typically all or some part of the meal is complimentary, meant to allow invited guests to roam the menu, experience the service and provide feedback for the management in order to guide decision making into full service. We did order just about everything, and that said, I do have some critical feedback, so I am going to get that out of the way first, before I get on to gushing about how much I love Maydan.

Service wise, the minor glitches are so minor that I won’t even mention it, because I know soft openings and these were NOTHING compared to what usually happens. Kinks like clearing plates, extra side dishes (hello it’s free, who cares) and delays in fresh bread (like we really need MORE? actually we do), will be ironed out in a matter of days in a restaurant run by the Compass Rose team. When I asked my fellow diners they thought a few mentioned that they thought that some of the food did not come out as hot as they would have expected. I’ll admit the seafood wasn’t scorching, but honestly it can’t stand up to extreme temperatures without losing its textural appeal, so I am not going to complain when my squid is tender yet tepid. The temp was fine where it counted for me, the beef kabobs, lamb, bread, etc. Now, maybe I am a bad critic, but this is one thing that I rarely notice (I guess I am usually running my mouth or slugging my wine when food hits the table) but it’s worth a mention as did we did hear rumors of issues with their expo heat lamps. I digress. My only material criticism, and I don’t even know if you can call it that, would be that this menu, this restaurant needs a signature. Compass Rose has the Khachepuri, people rave about, travel from near and far to get their fix, and if you’re me you try (and fail) to recreate it yourself. It’s amazing and it alone is the reason I can’t like Gluten Free and will bring me back to Compass Rose for as long as they’ll have me. Maydan needs something like this. The bread and condiments will be their calling card, but I am not going just for that. I mean, I think I know what dish it should be (not telling yet) but I am not sure that Maydan knows and I think that is ok. This is a critical organic marketing process, but I mention it in the hope that management is thoughtful in the evolution of the menu both in the kitchen and in print. Ok, enough feedback, onto the food (and the praise)

As I mentioned we ordered everything, well not everything, but I think we did a decent job, you tell me.

I had been readying myself all day by not eating anything so I was more than prepared to really explore this menu. Our server was knowledgeable in the most accessible, almost casual way, explaining the menu and the concept withtout condescending (you’d be surprised how rare this is, so I appreciated it). When she arrived to take our order we had made a majority of the choices already, but she deftly threw in a few suggestions that turned out to be spot on. We almost missed out on the spreads entirely, but she directed us to the crunch Beiruti Hummus (studded with fresh parley, green peppers, and scallions) because, “well, we’ve all had hummus (knowing eye roll) so try one with a nice crunch.” Later, as we slrted slip in ad, she surpised us with a pate we had not ordered. A light, crunhy, perfectly acidic cabbage salad that was fresher than any slaw I have ever had,. It was the perfect palate cleaners  and was a tablewide favorite.

I’ll proceed lightest to heaviest, hopefully that will make sense.

From the Kitchen

Salads, etc.

Mouneh - Pickled Vegetables – Radishes, carrots, peppers, onions, all perfectly tart and crunchy, great way to whet the appetite

Halloumi – Dukkah (Egyptian spice blend with sesame, sumac) grilled to absolute savory perfection and finished with the sweet counterpoint of honey – I could have eaten three more portions,. I am definitely cheese biaised (as in I love all cheese), but this preparation of halloumi controls what can be overwhelming salt content but maintains the unique umami of this cow, sheep, goat milke delight.

From the Fire;

Baby Eggplant – eggplant, grilled to the perfect char and topped with a sweet, nutty, early combination of pomegranate and walnut sauce. Honeslty, I love egglplant, but I often run out of interesting ways to prepare it. The enigmatic, herbaceous nature of the aubergine is often very difficult to pair with new flavor profiles and in the wrong combo can be downright offensive. This preparation, entirely the contrary, enlightening even. We ended up accidently getting three plates, I am not complaining.

Baby carrots – Cute little roots, grilled to the point their sweetness is coaxed out, these were delightful themselves but even better with a healthy dollop of the spicy harissa condiment.

Squid – body and tentacles, marinated in charmoulah, grilled to exactly the right texture, somebody knows what they are doing with seafood. The delicately briny flavor of the squid, sporting a slight char from the fire, perfectly complemented by the garlic, herbs and sweet perfume of the charmoulah was simple, seafood perfection. Do not miss this plate.

Shrimp – head on shrimp, similarly marinated in the lovely charmouleh, I want to love this dish so much but it kind of fell flat. I mean I love head on shrimp, and while I might have been the only person sucking on them, I did find them a little bland. I think I should have added some of the (wc) the slightly spicy cilantro condiment, but the other crustaceans had already been snatched up before I had a chance to try. I would give them another shot, but not a stand out.

Koobideh – beef kabob with saffron…weirdly amazing. I mean savory yes, beefy (is that a word) yes, the saffron, not something I ever would have expected but such an interesting floral almost funky way to do beef. It lent the kabob an almost sausagey aspect, which I kind of loved. I was slathering this in every condiment and each one gave it a unique characteristic.

Leg of Lamb – This was just out of this world. The leg is slow roasted overnight with a rich, deeply perfumed Syrian spice blend then, when ordered, hung above the open fire for about 30 minutes until it is hot and crispy. The meat is fork tender, smells (enchanting) and the taste is (wc). Dipped in the tomato jam one tastes the sweeter spices in the Syrian blend, spread the garlicky toum on it, and you get all the savory depth you could ever want. This dish will bring me back, and gets my vote for what will become Maydan’s signature.

Dessert was a cardamom cake (which I loved but cardamom is my favorite seet leaning spice of course I did) and this insane hot mozzarella cheese-in-crock creation topped with crunchy honey, nuts (I think pistacios…blame the wine) and rose water. The latter was ridiculous, yea it was cheese, but it was salty, metly, sweet bliss. I have never had a desseert like it or that I enjoyed so much, and apparently neither had my tablemates because in a flash spoons the thing was no longer…

Things we saw pass us by and def need to go back for include the lamb chops, the ‘Aleppo’ lamb kabob, the sardines, and labneh…ok like the other half of the menu, yes it all looks amazing. Our meal was am

 

 

 

Fall

The weather has finally taken a turn for the autumnal in Baltimore, and not a moment too soon. I don’t know if it’s that I am just ecstatic not to be profusely sweating all the time, but I am really feeling Fall this yea. Per usual, the farmer’s market is on point - a veritable cornucopia of goods signaling the richest season in the mid-Atlantic, and of course, lots of decorative gourds. The crisp air is here, the bounty of the Chesapeake in high gear and ample supply, it all has my cooking juices flowing. Once again we are in my favorite season in the kitchen. I have been dying to inaugurate autumn in my home, so much so that I recently spent an 80 degree September Saturday sweating over the stove for 6 hours making stock from scratch – like a fever dream it was as if I believed my bubbling cauldron could summon the season or something. The weather having finally caught up with the calendar (only a month behind the equinox mind you), I have been chomping at the bit to make something to harken its arrival. In reality though, due to general work-driven exhaustion, I am admittedly slacking in the dinner party department and not nearly spending enough time in the kitchen. So, with a friend visiting from DC as the impetus on a recent Friday, I decided I need to get back on the horse and make something special to mark my fall into Fall food. Enter; Smokey Red Wine Braised Short Ribs & Butternut Sage Fettuccini.

This recipe is so Fall, it’s kind of like jumping into a pile of leaves, wrapped in an oversized fair isle scarf while sipping on spiked cider in an oh-so-picturesque apple orchard. OK, it’s not that Fall, and yes the hot cider sounds dangerous, but it’s pretty damn Autumnal. Just think about the components.

Squash is like the international symbol of October, I have to check but it might actually be the official vegetable of the month or something, and with October being the Fallest of Fall months, well you see where we are going... Regardless, pasta is the official food of finally being able to wear layers again. So, roasted butternut squash and sage infused pasta is about as seasonal as you can get without actually having to put pumpkin spice on something.

Then there is the meat, more specifically braised meat. While meat makes noteworthy appearances in the cuisine of all seasons, it’s fall where it finally becomes bearable again to have ones oven on for hours while the kitchen warms and fills with the enchanting smell of roasting or braising beef, lamb, pork and various fowl. This recipe is the pinnacle of seasonal olfactory satisfaction. The red wine, the smoked paprika, the juniper berries (yes, I said juniper berries, try getting more woody goodness than that) all coming together to make the perfect sauce and scent for the season.

Anyway, you get it, there is chill in the air, the leaves have changed, sweaters are a daily thing, and you need to try this recipe. Happy Fall!

Ingredients:

Short Ribs

• 1.5 lbs (about 3) Beef Short Ribs
• 1 large yellow onion – peeled, rough chop
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 can tomato paste
• 3 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons dry oregano
• 1 tablespoon white pepper
• 3 tablespoons wood-smoked paprika (Frontier Brand is my fave)
• 2 tablespoons whole black pepper corns
• 1 tablespoon whole juniper berries
• Salt & Pepper for seasoning
• 2 tablespoons evoo
• 2 sprigs of fresh sage for garnish

Pasta

• 1 medium butternut squash – halved, seeds removed.
• 2 tablespoons garlic  powder
• 2 tablespoons dried sage powder
• 6 sprigs fresh sage
•  6 tablespoons butter
• 2 cups “00” flour + more for kneading and surfaces
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 teaspoon evoo
• Pecorino Romano for serving

Preparation:

To make the Short Ribs:

With butcher’s twine, tie the short ribs on both sides like a holiday gift. In a large, hot sauté pan, with 2 tablespoons evoo, brown each side (about 1 min) of the short ribs. Tying and browning will keep the meat together and retain the short rib shape despite the long cooking time.

If you are using a slower cooker, place the onions in the bottom the cooking pot. Place the short ribs on top. Spoon the tomato paste into the pot evenly between the ribs. Sprinkle the dried ingredients evenly over the mean. Pour the wine over top. Depending on the size of your appliance, you may want to add water, the liquid should reach just shy of half way up the sides of the meat. Cover, and cook on low for 6 hours. Once cooked, pour off, strain and reserve the braising liquid. This can be done ahead, refrigerated and brought up to temp for serving, or served immediately.

If using a convention oven, preheat your oven to 350F. Place the onions in the bottom of a small roasting pan Place the short ribs on top. Spoon the tomato paste into the pan evenly between the ribs. Sprinkle the dried ingredients evenly over the mean. Pour the wine over top. Depending on the size of your appliance, you may want to add water, the liquid should reach just shy of half way up the sides of the meat. Cover, and cook for 1.5 hours. Uncover, raise the heat to 400, and cook until the braising liquid is reduced by half (about another half hour). Once cooked, pour off, strain and reserve the braising liquid. It is best to braise in this manner, when you plan to serve the meal immediately.

When ready to serve:

In a small sauce pan, bring the reserved braising liquid to a rolling boil. Reduce to medium heat and cook until reduced and thick, use a whisk to keep it smooth and from burning. This will become the risk sauce you pour over the top of the meat when plating.

To make the pasta:

The squash can be roasted in the oven at the same time as the short ribs or can be made up to three days ahead and kept refrigerated.

Spread the evoo evenly around a shallow, glass, baking pan (a cake pan works fine). Brush the last tablespoon on the flesh surface of the halved squash. Sprinkle most of the garlic powder and sage on the oiled flesh, throw the rest in the oil in the pan. Place the squash, flesh side down, in the glass pan. Roast for 1 hour at 350. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Once cool, remove the skin with your hands or use a butter knife, it should easily slough off, if it does not, return to oven for additional time. Place the now soft flesh in a medium mixing bowl. Using either a pastry knife or an immersion blender, mash or puree the flesh until smooth. Set aside or refrigerate until you are ready to make the pasta.

In a large mixing bowl, place the flour and form a ‘volcano’ shape cone using the heel of a measuring cup to make a divot in the mound. Place the two eggs and 2 generous tablespoons of the squash puree in the center. Sprinkle with fine salt and olive oil. Working from the outside with your hands or a wooden spoon, incorporate the ingredients. You will begin to form a rough ball after a minute or two. Continue to work using your hands until the ball is smooth. You can add very small amounts of water or flour if your dough is to dry or wet. It should be soft, but not sticky. Once the texture is correct, knead gently (do not fold) for about 5 minutes. Dust in flour and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place and allow to rest for 20 minutes, this will allow the glutens to fully develop.

Pinch off a fistful of the dough. Flatten on a clean floured surface. Give it a few rolls with a rolling pin until about 1/4” thick and oblong in shape, ensure both sides are nicely floured otherwise it will stick to your pasta machine. Run the oblong shape through the pasta machine until desire thickness. I prefer to go thicker for these infused pastas, so you can really get the flavors, so I ensure the dough remains opaque. Run through the fettuccini cutter or use fettuccini attachment and hang to dry for about 20 minutes. Repeat with the remainder of the dough, ensuring you rewrap tightly each time you pinch more off, you do not want the dough to dry out.

If you are not cooking immediately, I suggest you freeze the fresh pasta so it does not get gummy and loose the individual strands. To prepare for freezing, toss with more flour and spread on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper while you stretch and cut the remaining dough.

When ready to serve:

Fill a large pot with water, salt generously, and bring to a boil.

While the water comes to temperature, melt the butter in a large sauce pan with medium heiht sides. Once melted, toss in the fresh sage leaves and turn up the heat. You want to cook the butter until it foams and brown flecks begin to appear. As soon as it browns, reduce heat to as low as possible, you want to keep the butter molten but not burnt while the pasta cooks.

Once the water is boiling, drop in your pasta and cook for 5-8 minutes depending on thickness and how much tooth you like your pasta to have. Strain well, and pour into the pan with the butter, using tongs to ensure evenly coated.

Plating:

I prefer to serve this dish on a plate with a rim. A broad, shallow bowl work as well. Using tongs, twist a generous portion of the pasta onto the center of the plate. Place the short rib in the center. Pour or spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat and allow some to run into the pasta. Garnish with a fresh sage sprig. I always suggest serving this dish with pecorino Romano on the side, the salty bite works perfectly with the smoky meat and the sweet and subtle pasta, enjoy!

Biscotti Binge - Gluten Free Biscotti Recipe

So, in 2015 my mother started making biscotti at home. In recent years, free from her days of preparing meals for her hungry brood, her culinary endeavors have become more and more creative and delicious (a far cry from the days of shake & bake, and steamed broccoli, but I mean she was raising 5 hellions, what else do you want?!?!).  As a hungry epicurean I am often initial critic and ultimately beneficiary of her experimentations and efforts. Among the  successes like toasted granola that I can’t get enough of, fruit jams and pickles that fill my refrigerator, it is her biscotti that is, by far, the standout. Her flavor combinations are unique, interesting and most importantly delicious.

Sweet Varieties

Her philosophy behind the flavors she chooses is that ‘good things come in threes’. Now I know that idea is a little cliché, but honestly I think it’s a good mantra for showing restraint and being highly intentional in her selections. Just last year she expander her offering to include both Gluten Free and Vegan varieties, her empty nest allowing her the time to devote to perfecting ratios and choosing the most reliable ingredients. She was so successful that I was able broker her first commercial sale to a local coffee shop here in Baltimore, for which she produced over 100 individual portions across the spectrum of flavors and dietary needs. Through this transaction I came into possession of a few dozen of my favorite varieties, which I clearly went through in a matter of days, it was the beginning of an addiction.



Savory Biscotti - Parmigiano, Herbs & Garlic

It’s been a few months now since my last shipment, and the demands of life have made visits home challenging but I have found myself craving her biscotti more and more frequently.  With no alternative biscotti craving solution on the horizon, and despite my distaste for and general lack of baking talent, I decided to attempt to recreate her biscotti myself.

I decided I would create both sweet and savory varieties, and gluten free of course (here’s looking at you MDW). The sweet would clearly contain chocolate and would be perfect for ice cream of coffee related consumption. The savory would be feature the like of garlic, herbs, and cheese, and would be a perfect complement to charcuterie or antipasti.



The process was rather simple, but lengthy. Biscotti must be shaped, brushed, baked, cooled, sliced, and bakes again. What on paper looked like an easy hour or so, easily took up my entire evening – and I only got through my sweet creations on my first attempt! In just two days I devoted over 6 hours to the baking process (I won’t admit how long it took me to eat them all for fear of reproach), but in the end this biscotti binge was totally worth it, and not likely to truly end any time soon. They are just so simple, methodically satisfying to prepare and there are myriad different concepts and combinations to try.

If you couldn’t tell already, I can’t seem to get enough of these buttery slices of biscuit heaven. In fact, I think these biscotti are one of the best gluten free baked goods I have ever had. Perhaps it’s the natural density of biscotti, the twice-baked method that helps the GF flour perform like its gluten-full relatives, or the care that has gone into crafting this particular recipe (I tend to think the latter) but you’d really never know they’re Gluten Free. The beauty of this recipe is that if you stick to the rule of 3, you really can’t go wrong. Simply replicate the basic dough, be thoughtful about your add-ins, follow instructions and you’re bound for success.

Enjoy!

“Good Things” Biscotti – Recipe Courtesy of Dolores Guerin

 

Ingredients

• 4 tablespoons butter, room temperature
• 1 cup Sugar
• 3 eggs + 1 for brushing
• 2 teaspoons vanilla
• 3 cups Bob’s Red Mill 1:1 Gluten Free Flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1-2 cups mix-ins (chocolate chips, dried fruit, nuts, etc – but remember, ONLY 3)
• For this preparation these are my combinations:
  • Dark Chocolate, Chopped Hazelnuts, Unsweetened Coconut Flakes
  • Dark Chocolate, Cardamom, Dried Sour Cherries
  • Parmigiano, Italian herb (Rosemary, Basil, Oregano), garlic

 

Preparation:

 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar on medium

speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes (Note: you can use  a hand mixed as I did , but that means you need to use a very low speed and add the eggs earlier as the butter will clump). Add 3 eggs, one at a time, beating to incorporate after each addition and scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Beat in vanilla. Add flour mixture, and mix on low speed until combined. Mix in mix-ins.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; divide in half. Snape each piece into a log across the

width of the pan. With the palm of your hand, flatten logs slightly. Transfer to parchment paper baking sheet. Beat remaining egg well, and Brush over surface of the dough logs.

Bake, rotating the sheet halfway through, until logs are slightly firm to touch and turning golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly, about 20 minutes.

Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees F.

Place logs on a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, cut logs crosswise on the diagonal into 1/2-3/4

inch-thick slices depending on your preference.  Arrange slices back on parchment paper, cut side down. Bake for 30

Brunch Werk - "Torta Española" Recipe

I have been working on a little side project involving brunch recently which has been a welcome respite from the 9 to 5 rat race. More to come on that at a later date, but it has got me thinking beyond the composed dinnertime  realm for recipe ideas, and more along the lines of breakfast and day time dishes.

Eggs are always one of my favorite foods, and I will honestly eat them any time of the day, but I often struggle with how to elevate them when it comes to serving them to guests.

It goes without saying I love brunch, being gay and all, but I don’t often find egg dishes super exciting or memorable when looking over a menu. I mean I’ll order a benedict or a shirred egg when out to brunch, but I usually end up feeling like I could have done it better at home by the time I am done. So, when looking for brunch project inspiration, I avoided my Sunday dining references, and  started to think back to some of the time I spent in Europe while I was studying abroad in Rome.

One of my favorite dishes,  one perfect for a poor college student country hopping on a shoestring budget, was Tortilla Española. Whether it was late night in a tapas spot in Madrid, a café in Barcelona or a beach bar in Malaga, I could always count on finding the eggy, starchy and sometimes cheesy hybrid of a quiche and an omelet at a reasonable price and in good supply. It was this reminiscing that led me to attempt my own twist on the classic Spanish dish as a part of developing a brunch menu.

I decided for ease of prep, storage, and service, this would have to have a crust, and therefore part from Spanish tradition and lean more toward the quiche end of things. Beyond that, I wanted to pump up the flavor and decided my version would most certainly contain salty, nutty Manchego cheese and a savory, piquant chorizo. I debated how I would incorporate the requisite potato, without which I could reasonable even reference the Tortilla Española name, and vacillated between attempting to avoid injury on the mandolin by thinly slicing the spuds and simply grating them and mixing freely with the eggs. I decided on the latter, as I figured it would offer a lighter texture since the “Torta” as I was now calling it, already had a starchy crust, layers of potatoes would just be far too heavy.

I whipped it all together one morning and ended up adding a healthy dose of oakwood smoked paprika (My fave brand found here), a minced white onion, and generous garlic powder, salt and white pepper. I lined by deep pie pan with crust and simply filled it in with the wet ingredients, topping it off with more paprika just for color. It took slightly longer to cook than I expected but the result was golden-red and delicious. I ended up serving it at an impromptu day time champagne kiki (A kiki is a party, look it up) I held for one of my friends celebrating a birthday and in from out of town. It was a boozy brunchy hit!

My “Torta Española” will most certainly take a top spot in my emerging brunch repertoire.

Ingredients:

• 10 eggs
• 1 white onion – finely chopped
• 2 cups half and half
• 2 cups grated/shredded potato (you can use frozen hash brown)
• 8oz Chorizo - diced
• 2 pie crusts – homemade or frozen
• 6 oz Manchego cheese, crumbled or roughly grated
• 1 tablespoon white pepper
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon oakwood smoked paprika + 1 teaspoon for finishing

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. In a large bowl, combine eggs, half and half, and spices. Beat until evening incorporated (I use an immersion blender on low to speed things up). Place one pie crust in the bottom of a large pie pan. Cut the other pie crust into a long strip and work around the edges of the pan for a strong side crust and edge. Add the onions, cheese, and chorizo to the egg mixture and mix well. Pour slowly into the pie pan. Sprinkle teaspoon paprika over top for color. Bake for 35-50 minutes depending on your oven until the center is set and the crust is golden brown. Let stand for 20 mins or chill and serve.

Recipe: Slow Roasted “Smashed” Salmon with Citrus, Chilies, and Fennel

Slow Roasted “Smashed” Salmon with Citrus, Chilies, and Fennel

Ingredients:

• 1 medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced
• 1 navel orange, very thinly sliced, seeds removed
• 1 lemon, very thinly sliced, seeds removed
• 4 dried chile de arbol (you can also use fresh fresno chile, however, if you do, the heat will last longer, using dried makes a nice bite that fades quickly)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
• Kosher salt, coarsely ground pepper
• 1 2-pound skinless salmon fillet, preferably center-cut
• 3/4 cup evoo
• Sea Salt to taste
• Ground Black pepper to taste
• 1 lb Fresh Asparagus, washed and trimmed
• 1 tablespoon evoo

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking tray with foil, and place asparagus on top and drizzle with oil. Roast for 15-20 until deep green and tender. Do not worry about seasoning, the “broth” from the salmon will impact plenty of flavor
2. Reduce oven to 275°F. Toss fennel, orange slices, lemon slices, chile, and 4 dill sprigs in a shallow 3-quart baking dish; season with kosher salt and pepper. Season salmon with kosher salt and place on top of fennel mixture. Pour oil over. (For a richer flavor, top the salmon with a few patties of butter)
3. Roast until salmon is just cooked through (the tip of a knife will slide through easily and flesh will be slightly opaque), 30–40 minutes for medium-rare.
4. Transfer salmon to a platter, breaking it into large pieces as you go. Place asparagus on the serving platter. Spoon fennel mixture and oil from baking dish over top of the asparagus, 

How We Do Super Bowl Sunday - Buffalo Fried Chicken, Home Organization & Lady Gaga

I’ve previously expressed my disinterest in the Super Bowl, but none-the-less it managed to permeate my weekend. We were generously invited to watch the game with some friends which had been our intention to do, football with gays is palatable enough, but we fell far behind our major Sunday To-Do list (thank you Saturday night decision making skills…) and decided not to leave the house. 

After spending the better part of Saturday reorganizing the office, and most of Sunday hunched over reinventing the basement system, by the time dinner time (and kick-off apparently) rolled around I was in quite the mood. You see, in a perfect world Mark is the organizer and I am the decorator, separate and sequential roles. Mark, however, is under the impression that organizing is some how a collaborative effort. I don’t get it, I always end up staring at him blankly while he dives down rabbit holes of rearranging, categorizing and labeling. I’ll occasionally get to vote yes or no on a throwaway question, or he’ll ask me to step in for heavy lifting, but other than that, it’s painfully dull and decidedly non-collaborative. His prized Christmas gift this year, a label maker, made the process even more excruciating in that it meant constant silent delays in progress as he typed, formatted and printed the dozens of tiny labels that now cover every box, bin, drawer and shelf in our home. We have a shelf dedicated to and labeled for “Small-Med Plastic Storage Containers” …Who has signage for storage for storage?!?! Anyway…

I hit a breaking point at about hour 3 and made a break for the kitchen. I don’t know if it was the proliferation of Super Bowl, Football and Gaga talk on social media or my frayed nerves, but I was craving fried food like nobody’s business.

I decided to use the guise of “Super Bowl Sunday Cooking” as an excuse for making Buffalo Fried Chicken. And yes, I do create internal narratives about all my meals, normally to justify indulgent ingredients but sometimes just because I’m crazy…What? you don't? I can’t be the only who does this…anyone?

I digress...Naturally, I wanted to take buffalo chicken to the next level so I quickly decided a roasted Brussels Sprouts and blue cheese hash would be the perfect traditionally thematic yet Instagram appropriate fancy base for my dish. I made my own Buffalo sauce (butter, more butter, hot sauce and butter) and made a quick gluten free batter using cornstarch, maseca, and unsweetened coconut milk. I cut chicken thighs into nugget sized portions and dredged them adding some salt, garlic powder, pepper, and paprika for color and flavor. Prep and frying were quick and easy and the Sprouts roasted simultaneously, overall, this was a surprisingly simple way to Super Bowl comfort food success.

We finished eating just in time for the Gaga Half time show. After a tumultuous 2016 we ended our cable relationship with Comcast (my face may be on their watch list) so I had tried to think ahead and figure out a way to stream the event live. But in the moment of truth, every which way I tried didn’t work. I was panicking. I texted my friend in desperation to see if her techie partner would have any solutions to save my night. She instantly FaceTimed me and we watched the show together in the darkness gasping and yasssing as Gaga recreated the soundtrack to my coming out story through each stop in her musical catalog…Fitting end to a trying (and frying) Sunday...

Buffalo Chicken Nuggets with Buttermilk Brussels Sprouts Hash

Ingredients:

• 1.5 lbs Brussels Sprouts - Stemmed and sliced thin (almost like cole slaw)
• 6 oz Buttermilk Blue Cheese (or whatever type you prefer) - crumbled
• 1.5 lbs Boneless-Skinless Chicken Thighs - cut into "nugget" sized pieces
• 1 tablespoon evoo
• 1/3 cup Corn Starch
• 1 cup Maseca
• 1 cup Unsweeted Coconut Milk
• 6 tablespoons Salted Butter
• 1/4 cup Your Favorite Hot Sauce + more to taste
• 1 tablespoon Worchesterchire Sauce
• 1 tablespoon White Vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Black Pepper
• 1 teaspoon Garlic Powder
• 1 teaspoon Fine Salt
• 1 teaspoon Paprika
• 2 cups vegetable oil (for frying)

Preheat oven to 400F. Toss sprouts in evoo and spread in large glass roasting dish. Cover with blue cheese crumbles. Roast for 20 mins, tossing halfway through, they should be bright green when you remove from the oven. While sprouts roast. Combine cornstarch, maseca, coconut milk, salt, pepper, garlic powder, and paprika in a medium mixing bowl. Add water as needed to achieve a runny but smooth batter texture (like you're making pancakes). Dredge the chicken in the batter and ensure even coverage. Heat the frying oil to in a high sided pot (to avoid splatter). Once hot, fry the chicken in batches, carefully turning the nuggets throughout for about 7 minutes or until golden. To make the sauce, heat a stick of salted butter in a small sauce pan. Once melted add hot sauce, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and stir until thoroughly combined. Put in a large mixing bowl and when nuggets are fried, toss them in the bowl until evenly coated. Serve immediately atop sprouts hash and top off with a few blue cheese crumbles.

Chili Without Borders - And Super Bowl Fever

Super Bowl Sunday is right around the corner and that has me in the mood for Chili!

I’m totally kidding, I don’t watch sportsball. I’ll be over here checking twitter for reactions to Gaga and googling the best ads at work on Monday…

That being said, it IS chili season. The depths of winter is the best (and really the only appropriate) time for this cold weather comfort food. The first months of the year bring the depressing gray skies and camouflaging layers of clothing that both make chili so appealing and wardrobe friendly.

According to nationalchiliday.com (yes, that's a thing and it's coming up on February 23rd) the origins of chili are shrouded in myth and mystery. There are theories that a Spanish nun, alive in the 1600’s, had a transatlantic spiritual experience with Native Americans, after which she recorded a recipe for a venison based version of the dish. Mexico is often credited with its invention, but any Mexican will adamantly deny any association with “chiles con carne” (peppers with meat). There is some consensus, however, that the first written and recorded recipe came from J.C. Clopper , a historian of sorts, hailing from the Houston area, who, while never using the word ‘chili’ describes a traditional peasant dish with stewed meat and peppers in an article describing life in 19^th century San Antonio, Texas. In the 1880’s “chili queens” were selling bowls of meat and vegetable hash in market stalls in the city, and by 1898 the name “San Antonio Chili Stand” was featured at the Chicago World’s Fair. The humble dish is often credited for keeping starvation at bay throughout the Great Depression due to the inexpensive yet nourishing  nature of the ingredients, but by the 1960’s it had been elevated to executive levels. President Lyndon B Johnson was famously a chili lover, so much so his wife, First Lady Ladybird Johnson was said to have had cards bearing his favorite ‘Pedernales Chili’ recipe mailed to thousands from the White House.

Chili is arguably as American as apple pie, no matter where it came from. It’s an amalgamation of ingredients, that likely arose out of necessity  for economy with available food, flavored by inputs from varied cultural traditions and changing times, and is now beloved nationwide. Despite its ubiquity and national proliferation, there are decidedly diverse regional schools of thought on the proper ingredients for chili. Divisions so stark and opinions so strong (beans vs no beans for example) they have sparked many a heated dinner table argument on the “rules” of chili from place to place.  But really I can’t be bothered with the debate…

Let’s be honest people, you throw a bunch of different things in a pot, mix it together, heat it up, and let it simmer until all the flavors combine to complement and elevate each other. It’s the way the ingredients balance each  other and work together that makes it so good….It doesn’t take a genius to see the obvious “American Melting pot” metaphor, but these days, it’s clear some people just don’t get it… When we respect, honor, and elevate each other, we improve ourselves and the condition of everyone. That’s why for my latest chili-potluck at work I decided to put an even more inclusive, global spin on my submission and created the recipe for “Chili Without Borders”. I used garbanzo beans from the traditions of the middle east, curry squash from south asia, roasted chiles from latin America (sorry Mexico, I had to), and spice combinations drawing inspiration cuisine from all across the globe, achieving, in the end a depth and complexity of flavor that even I didn’t know was possible for humble chili.

I’m aware that chili as protest piece and crock pot as soap box is eye roll worthy to some, but it’s my simple way to demonstrate that diversity truly does make things better (and more delicious).

Chili Without Borders

Ingredients:

• 1 medium butternut squash – peeled, cleaned  and cut into 1.5” cubes
• 3lbs ground beef
• 1 can pinto beans – drained
• 1 can garbanzo beans – drained
• 1 can black beans - drained
• 1 large yellow onion – chopped
• 3 cloves garlic – minced
• 2 cans tomato paste
• 1/2 cup roasted poblano chili peppers - diced
• 2 tablespoons Wood Smoked Paprika + more to taste
• This is a critical piece, you must have a nice smoky paprika for depth
• 2 tablespoons garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons + 1 tablespoon evoo
• 2 tablespoons curry powder (I like a sweet and spicy variety)
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1 tablespoon ground mustard or Chinese mustard (prepared)
• 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper + more to heat preference
• 2 tablespoons + 1 tablespoon evoo
• Salt, pepper and red chili flakes to taste
• 4 oz sharp cheddar cheese (optional) – grated

Preparation:

****This recipe is meant to be malleable and adapted to your taste or current mood and serves 8-10  depending on your appetite and portion control capabilities****

Preheat oven to 450 ° F. Line a baking tray with foil. Toss cubed squash with garlic powder, curry  and evoo in a large mixing bowl until well coated. Spread evenly on foil. Bake for 30-35 minutes, check with a fork around 20 to make sure they are not getting too mushy, but brown/crispy parts are encouraged (hence the high temp).

While squash roasts, heat evoo in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent. Add ground beef and break into small pieces with a utensil. Brown the meat, but watch the heat to ensure it does not burn. Once there is no more pink visible, you can take a moment to drain the excess fat depending on the fat ratio of the ground beef you used. Turn the heat to low, and add your tomato paste, all the spices, and the beans. Mix well and cook, on very low heat, until squash is done roasting. Add roasted squash and incorporate all ingredients, taste at this point. Add additional salt, pepper or spices to your preferred savory or spice level. At this point you can put on a very low burner (like a simmer option) or put in a crock pot on low and allow to cook and let th flavors marry for at least an hour. Serve hot with the grated cheese on top, and preferably some sour cream and corn bread.