Fall

The weather has finally taken a turn for the autumnal in Baltimore, and not a moment too soon. I don’t know if it’s that I am just ecstatic not to be profusely sweating all the time, but I am really feeling Fall this yea. Per usual, the farmer’s market is on point - a veritable cornucopia of goods signaling the richest season in the mid-Atlantic, and of course, lots of decorative gourds. The crisp air is here, the bounty of the Chesapeake in high gear and ample supply, it all has my cooking juices flowing. Once again we are in my favorite season in the kitchen. I have been dying to inaugurate autumn in my home, so much so that I recently spent an 80 degree September Saturday sweating over the stove for 6 hours making stock from scratch – like a fever dream it was as if I believed my bubbling cauldron could summon the season or something. The weather having finally caught up with the calendar (only a month behind the equinox mind you), I have been chomping at the bit to make something to harken its arrival. In reality though, due to general work-driven exhaustion, I am admittedly slacking in the dinner party department and not nearly spending enough time in the kitchen. So, with a friend visiting from DC as the impetus on a recent Friday, I decided I need to get back on the horse and make something special to mark my fall into Fall food. Enter; Smokey Red Wine Braised Short Ribs & Butternut Sage Fettuccini.

This recipe is so Fall, it’s kind of like jumping into a pile of leaves, wrapped in an oversized fair isle scarf while sipping on spiked cider in an oh-so-picturesque apple orchard. OK, it’s not that Fall, and yes the hot cider sounds dangerous, but it’s pretty damn Autumnal. Just think about the components.

Squash is like the international symbol of October, I have to check but it might actually be the official vegetable of the month or something, and with October being the Fallest of Fall months, well you see where we are going... Regardless, pasta is the official food of finally being able to wear layers again. So, roasted butternut squash and sage infused pasta is about as seasonal as you can get without actually having to put pumpkin spice on something.

Then there is the meat, more specifically braised meat. While meat makes noteworthy appearances in the cuisine of all seasons, it’s fall where it finally becomes bearable again to have ones oven on for hours while the kitchen warms and fills with the enchanting smell of roasting or braising beef, lamb, pork and various fowl. This recipe is the pinnacle of seasonal olfactory satisfaction. The red wine, the smoked paprika, the juniper berries (yes, I said juniper berries, try getting more woody goodness than that) all coming together to make the perfect sauce and scent for the season.

Anyway, you get it, there is chill in the air, the leaves have changed, sweaters are a daily thing, and you need to try this recipe. Happy Fall!

Ingredients:

Short Ribs

• 1.5 lbs (about 3) Beef Short Ribs
• 1 large yellow onion – peeled, rough chop
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 can tomato paste
• 3 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons dry oregano
• 1 tablespoon white pepper
• 3 tablespoons wood-smoked paprika (Frontier Brand is my fave)
• 2 tablespoons whole black pepper corns
• 1 tablespoon whole juniper berries
• Salt & Pepper for seasoning
• 2 tablespoons evoo
• 2 sprigs of fresh sage for garnish

Pasta

• 1 medium butternut squash – halved, seeds removed.
• 2 tablespoons garlic  powder
• 2 tablespoons dried sage powder
• 6 sprigs fresh sage
•  6 tablespoons butter
• 2 cups “00” flour + more for kneading and surfaces
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 teaspoon evoo
• Pecorino Romano for serving

Preparation:

To make the Short Ribs:

With butcher’s twine, tie the short ribs on both sides like a holiday gift. In a large, hot sauté pan, with 2 tablespoons evoo, brown each side (about 1 min) of the short ribs. Tying and browning will keep the meat together and retain the short rib shape despite the long cooking time.

If you are using a slower cooker, place the onions in the bottom the cooking pot. Place the short ribs on top. Spoon the tomato paste into the pot evenly between the ribs. Sprinkle the dried ingredients evenly over the mean. Pour the wine over top. Depending on the size of your appliance, you may want to add water, the liquid should reach just shy of half way up the sides of the meat. Cover, and cook on low for 6 hours. Once cooked, pour off, strain and reserve the braising liquid. This can be done ahead, refrigerated and brought up to temp for serving, or served immediately.

If using a convention oven, preheat your oven to 350F. Place the onions in the bottom of a small roasting pan Place the short ribs on top. Spoon the tomato paste into the pan evenly between the ribs. Sprinkle the dried ingredients evenly over the mean. Pour the wine over top. Depending on the size of your appliance, you may want to add water, the liquid should reach just shy of half way up the sides of the meat. Cover, and cook for 1.5 hours. Uncover, raise the heat to 400, and cook until the braising liquid is reduced by half (about another half hour). Once cooked, pour off, strain and reserve the braising liquid. It is best to braise in this manner, when you plan to serve the meal immediately.

When ready to serve:

In a small sauce pan, bring the reserved braising liquid to a rolling boil. Reduce to medium heat and cook until reduced and thick, use a whisk to keep it smooth and from burning. This will become the risk sauce you pour over the top of the meat when plating.

To make the pasta:

The squash can be roasted in the oven at the same time as the short ribs or can be made up to three days ahead and kept refrigerated.

Spread the evoo evenly around a shallow, glass, baking pan (a cake pan works fine). Brush the last tablespoon on the flesh surface of the halved squash. Sprinkle most of the garlic powder and sage on the oiled flesh, throw the rest in the oil in the pan. Place the squash, flesh side down, in the glass pan. Roast for 1 hour at 350. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Once cool, remove the skin with your hands or use a butter knife, it should easily slough off, if it does not, return to oven for additional time. Place the now soft flesh in a medium mixing bowl. Using either a pastry knife or an immersion blender, mash or puree the flesh until smooth. Set aside or refrigerate until you are ready to make the pasta.

In a large mixing bowl, place the flour and form a ‘volcano’ shape cone using the heel of a measuring cup to make a divot in the mound. Place the two eggs and 2 generous tablespoons of the squash puree in the center. Sprinkle with fine salt and olive oil. Working from the outside with your hands or a wooden spoon, incorporate the ingredients. You will begin to form a rough ball after a minute or two. Continue to work using your hands until the ball is smooth. You can add very small amounts of water or flour if your dough is to dry or wet. It should be soft, but not sticky. Once the texture is correct, knead gently (do not fold) for about 5 minutes. Dust in flour and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place and allow to rest for 20 minutes, this will allow the glutens to fully develop.

Pinch off a fistful of the dough. Flatten on a clean floured surface. Give it a few rolls with a rolling pin until about 1/4” thick and oblong in shape, ensure both sides are nicely floured otherwise it will stick to your pasta machine. Run the oblong shape through the pasta machine until desire thickness. I prefer to go thicker for these infused pastas, so you can really get the flavors, so I ensure the dough remains opaque. Run through the fettuccini cutter or use fettuccini attachment and hang to dry for about 20 minutes. Repeat with the remainder of the dough, ensuring you rewrap tightly each time you pinch more off, you do not want the dough to dry out.

If you are not cooking immediately, I suggest you freeze the fresh pasta so it does not get gummy and loose the individual strands. To prepare for freezing, toss with more flour and spread on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper while you stretch and cut the remaining dough.

When ready to serve:

Fill a large pot with water, salt generously, and bring to a boil.

While the water comes to temperature, melt the butter in a large sauce pan with medium heiht sides. Once melted, toss in the fresh sage leaves and turn up the heat. You want to cook the butter until it foams and brown flecks begin to appear. As soon as it browns, reduce heat to as low as possible, you want to keep the butter molten but not burnt while the pasta cooks.

Once the water is boiling, drop in your pasta and cook for 5-8 minutes depending on thickness and how much tooth you like your pasta to have. Strain well, and pour into the pan with the butter, using tongs to ensure evenly coated.

Plating:

I prefer to serve this dish on a plate with a rim. A broad, shallow bowl work as well. Using tongs, twist a generous portion of the pasta onto the center of the plate. Place the short rib in the center. Pour or spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat and allow some to run into the pasta. Garnish with a fresh sage sprig. I always suggest serving this dish with pecorino Romano on the side, the salty bite works perfectly with the smoky meat and the sweet and subtle pasta, enjoy!